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Who doesn’t love a great roadie? Self-drive adventures rank highly in my pantheon of golden travel experiences and Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast touring route is a show-stopper. Bookended by Derry~Londonderry and Belfast Lough, this sublime 185km drive threads together a stirring mosaic of fishing villages, secluded beaches, wondrous rock formations, rugged coastlines, crumbling castles, storied history and mouth-watering scenery.

Pointing the car northeast from Derry~Londonderry, I began tracing the nooks and crannies of Northern Ireland’s theatrical coastline by stopping off at Mussenden Temple. Dramatically perched on a cliff lording over Downhill Beach, this flamboyant folly was constructed in 1785 - inspired by the Temple of Vesta, near Rome. This circular stone temple served as a library and retreat for the eccentric Earl of Bristol who was also the Bishop of Derry (Earl Bishop), along with enormous views over the Atlantic Ocean. The setting is lip-smacking, wrapped in glorious estate gardens which you can explore on the cliff-edge walk, along with the ruins of the Earl Bishop’s mansion, Downhill House.

Fancy a beach layover? The neighbouring seaside resort towns of Portstewart and Portrush are blessed with sprawling blonde-sand beaches, backed my muscular limestone cliffs. Portrush is the bigger, brasher resort with an abundance of souvenir shops and amusement arcades like Curry’s Fun Park. There’s a faded glory feel to this seaside spot, exuding a retro appeal, in a similar vein to Blackpool or Bournemouth. But it’s those drop-dead-gorgeous beaches and turquoise waters that really steal the show.

Liberally strung along the Causeway Coast, strategically located look-out points cater to roadtrippers eager to get snap-happy and drink in the panoramic views. Few spots command greater affection than the Dunluce Castle look-out. It’s a riveting perch to dreamily gaze across the crumbling castle ruins, clinging to the cliff, high above the churning ocean on a wind-walloped basalt outcrop. This medieval stronghold of the MacDonnell clan featured regularly on Game of Thrones. The MacDonnell Clan of Antrim still technically own it, even though the castle fell into disrepair 300 years ago. You can access it via the bridge which connects it to the mainland. Like many Irish castles, Dunluce has a fine bit of legend attached to it. It’s said that on a stormy night back in 1639, part of the castle’s kitchen fell into the icy water below. Apparently, only the kitchen boy survived, as he managed to tuck himself away in a safe corner of the room.

If set-jetting is your bag, there’s a host of fantastical shooting locations for Thrones fans to scout out in Northern Ireland, around the Causeway Coast. Just inland in Ballymoney, I jaunted to The Dark Hedges. Falling victim to over-tourism, stringent traffic and parking restrictions are now in place. Go early in the morning to dodge the hordes. Nor did I see

The Dark Hedges. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The legendary ghost, the Grey Lady, a spectral figure said to drift silently between the ancient beech trees. This iconic avenue of gnarly, intertwined beech trees was planted in the 18th century by the Stuart family to create a grand entrance to their estate, Gracehill House. It’s an ethereal landscape which of course became globally famed after appearing as Kingsroad on Game of Thrones. Sadly, over a dozen of these trees have been lost in recent storms and a heritage trust has been formed to try and keep the remaining 80 trees alive, given they are reaching the end of their natural lives.

Heading back to the ocean, the Causeway Coast earns its name from a primordial geological marvel that may well prove to be your road-tripping highlight. Yes, the Giant’s Causeway. Forged 60 million years ago when molten lava cooled quickly in the ocean water and contracted into crystallised basalt pillars, it is a head-spinning volcanic formation. The spectacle is compelling, a procession of 40,000 basalt hexagonal blocks and columns, reaching out into the ocean, like primal pistons thrusting out of the earth. You can take your chances and hop-scotch or clamber your way across these inter-locking formations, as crashing waves thunder in. The spectacle is best enjoyed at low-tide, revealing more and more of these basalt columns.

Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Photo / Mike Yardley

I enjoyed a night in the charismatic village of Bushmills, just minutes from the Giant’s Causeway. Sip on a dram from the world’s oldest licensed distillery. Old Bushmills Distillery started manufacturing after a grant from King James 1 in 1608. Over 400 years later, they're still making single-malt whiskey here, using Irish barley and the unique water from their own stream too, spilling out of the River Bush which flows over basalt rock. Jamesons is the No.1 selling Irish whiskey. Like Jamesons, Bushmills is triple-distilled for smoothness, but distinctly individual in character. If you prefer gentle vanilla sweetness with subtle fruitiness, reach for Jameson. If malty richness with honey and spice appeals more, Bushmills will hit the sweet spot. Take a distillery tour to fully revel in the magic.

Just around the corner, enjoy a night at the Bushmills Inn Hotel. Sharing the same pedigree as the distillery, the oldest part of the Inn, which is now home to the restaurant, was the original coach house and stables, circa 1608. Blending historic character with modern luxury, this award-winning hotel, backed by the River Burn, is an evocative place to rest and savour the legendary drama and beauty of the Causeway Coast. Space and luxury are the hallmark of the 41 guest rooms and suites, individually designed with stylish, traditional furnishings. After enjoying a dram by the cracking peat fire, tuck into some seriously good gourmet dining, steeped in local produce like treacle-cured salmon and seabass fillets with seared scallops.

After a great night’s sleep and a hearty full Irish breakfast, I headed back on the Causeway route, passing through picturesque Ballintoy Harbour (another Thrones filming site) to reach the remarkable Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Suspended and swaying 30 metres above the roiling Atlantic, this catch-your-breath rope bridge is cared

for by the National Trust. Clinging to the cliffs off the mainland and the outcrop Carrick Island, this gnarly rope bridge was first erected by salmon fishermen over 250 years ago. Crossing the bridge is a thrilling experience with sublime views across to Rathlin Island and the Scottish Islands, along with encountering the original salmon fishery. Blow out the cobwebs and sway with the bracing wind. Fishermen first constructed a single handrail rope bridge to transport boxes of their prized salmon, caught off the island. There would be have been tens of thousands of crossings, over time. Ever since its construction in 1755, not a single report of anyone losing their from slipping off the bridge has been recorded. I didn’t want to blot that copybook. As I tentatively crossed over, my guide thoughtfully informed me that the current model can withstand the weight of a double-decker bus. After reflecting on the gluttonous size of my full Irish breakfast, that was quite reassuring. I was lucky enough to get a glimpse of the historic fisherman’s cottage, where they would store their nets and take shelter while awaiting their catch of migrating salmon. It’s a magnificent, elemental nugget of coastal pride and seafaring heritage.

Carnlough Harbour. Photo / Mike Yardley

For a complete of scenery, I headed south to take in the Glens of Antrim that jut in from the coast like verdant wonderlands for outdoorsy adventures. These nine dramatic, forest-filled valleys in County Antrim, spill forth with folklore, spectacular hiking trails, bucolic splendour and truly charming villages like Glenariff. If you’re after a scenic medley of deep valleys, rolling hills, lush forests and thundering waterfalls, you’ll be in seventh heaven. Don’t rush the Glens, they’re best savoured at an easy, meditative and relaxed pace.

For one final night of Causeway magic, before driving back to Belfast and onto Dublin, I luxuriated in the picturesque seaside village of Carnlough. Located at the foothills of Glencoy – one of the nine Glens of Antrim, edged by the shores of Carnlough Bay, this sheltered and compact harbour is the focal point of Carnlough village. Carnlough Harbour is another Thrones location to add to you tick-list. Fans will recognise the stony staircase leading down to the sea, filmed as part of the Free City of Braavos Canal. With its storybook good looks, this sweetheart stone harbour was first constructed in 1854 by the Marchioness of Londonderry (Winston Churchill’s great grandmother), to help develop the limestone export trade. It’s also home to the Harbourview Hotel. Formerly known as the Londonderry Arms, this gorgeous main street institution, beckoning like a country house hotel, has been refreshed into Ireland’s first destination whiskey hotel.

The Harbourview’s focus is on Irish spirits, rare tastings, and events, blending its rich 1848 history with modern coastal luxury on the scenic Causeway Coast. I delved into the hotel’s Whiskey Chamber, brimming with over 200 Irish whiskeys, where sublime tastings, distillery dinners, and whiskey-themed events take place, led by co-owner and master distiller Darryl McNally. Darryl and his fellow hotel owners also own Outwalker and Limavady Whiskey. Great drops!

Old Bushmills Distillery. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Retaining stunning features including open fires and original terrazzo flooring, the new hotel features a newly refurbished bar, lounge and restaurant, offering the perfect blend of timeless charm and modern Irish hospitality. Each of the 35 elegantly appointed bedrooms have been completely redecorated and revamped, blending contemporary luxury with timeless style, and where the emphasis centred squarely on comfort. Hearty hospitality and a homely atmosphere is just the start of the Harbourview’s seduction. A fitting place to raise a celebratory glass to the conveyer belt of treasures, underpinning the siren-like pull of the Causeway Coast.

Fill your heart with Ireland in the enchanting Emerald Isle. For more touring insights and inspiration, head to the official website www.ireland.com

I flew to Dublin with Qatar Airways, recently crowned the 2025 World’s Best Airline by Skytrax, scooping the supreme honours for the ninth consecutive year. Qatar Airways flies non-stop between Doha and Auckland daily, with onward connections to 170 destinations, including daily flights to Dublin. I flew in Economy and you’ll notice the difference with one of the widest seats in the industry, complete with adjustable headrests. Lap up generous dining, complimentary Wi-Fi and over 8000 on-demand entertainment offerings in the Oryx One system. For best fares and seats to suit, www.qatarairways.com

Mike Yardley is ¾ÅÒ»ÐÇ¿ÕÎÞÏÞtalk ZB’s resident traveller and talks travel every week on Saturday mornings with Jack Tame.