/lifestyle/travel/rss 九一星空无限 Wed, 25 Jun 2025 09:22:38 Z en /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-walking-with-the-giants-on-santa-cruz-island-galapagos/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-walking-with-the-giants-on-santa-cruz-island-galapagos/ After revelling in my 4-night cruise in the Galapagos Islands with Viva Expeditions, my dreamscape experience aboard La Pinta concluded with one final port call at Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz Island. Viva Expeditions highly recommends you combine a dreamy cruise with a land-based stay and Santa Cruz Island is the incomparable choice. There are 19 large islands in the archipelago and just four are inhabited, with a total population of just 30,000 residents (as is the case with the tourism industry, population numbers remain carefully controlled by the Ecuadorian government).  Santa Cruz’s bustling and cheerfully coloured port town of Puerto Ayora is tailormade for wide-eyed visitors, well-endowed with local tour operators, superb gift stores and galleries, perky bars, restaurants and accommodation to suit all budgets. Given 97% of the Galapagos Islands has national park protection, it virtually felt like a novelty to experience such a different slice of the Galapagos, abuzz with people, traffic and urban vibes. But the eye-catching town is compact enough to explore on foot, strung around the shoreline promenade (malecón), aptly called Avenue Charles Darwin.  Colourful bars of Puerto Ayora. Photo / Mike Yardley For all the allure of contemporary creature comforts and tourist trappings, nature still holds court. I loved watching the sea lions hauling their bulging bodies out of the harbour to stretch out on the beach, let alone commandeering the park benches and picnic tables, for a spot of sun-bathing and a snooze. They clearly have right of way – and the locals love it that way. Another great calling card in this wildlife wonderland is the constant spectacle of marine iguanas, who have a propensity to pile on top of each other, particularly along boardwalks and paved areas, with their eyes typically closed in Zen-like in the sunshine.  They’re easier to spot on public spaces, rather than on the jet-black lava rocks, where their charcoal-grey hue seamlessly blends in with the natural terrain, along with flecks of volcanic red. I became besotted by marine iguanas, particularly their penchant for sneezing out salt. They have a supersized gland that acts like a kidney, allowing them to extract excess salt from their blood flow. They’re also a poster child for Darwinism, because these guys were initially terrestrial iguanas, evolving into their marine status and spreading across the archipelago.  Marine Iguana in Santa Cruz. Photo / Supplied I spent two glorious nights at Finch Bay Hotel, just a short shuttle panga boat ride from the harbourfront. The convivial hotel manager, Alfonso remarked to me that the birdlife still consider the property as their playground. Several years ago, a pond was replaced with the hotel’s gleaming new pool – yet to this day, particularly at dawn and dusk, various birds will cruise in for a quick dip and wash in the pool. It keeps the maintenance staff on their toes, but it once again reinforced to me that nature still rules supreme in these parts. As it should be.  Enjoying a privileged location as the only beachfront hotel in Santa Cruz, Finch Bay Hotel is a stylish roost to base yourself for some island downtime. The perfect complement to a Galapagos cruise, feel the island’s essence with some leisurely terrestrial luxury at this swish Santa Cruz eco-resort. There’s a variety of accommodation options including suites with direct ocean views. Finch Bay is a fresh, relaxing retreat, where crisp bed linens, stylish interiors and balconies with space to sling a hammock are standard.   Finch Bay Hotel accomodation. Photo / Supplied I savoured the very best in Galapagos dining at the on-site restaurant, anchored by fresh, local ingredients (many from their own vegetable garden), executed with flair, and accompanied by authentic, sparkling service. The ocean’s bounty held sway with my preferences – don’t go past the slipper lobster and the restaurant’s magnificent seafood pasta. Sustainability is steeped in their DNA, from collecting rainwater and energy-saving measures to recycling and daily beach-cleaning. It’s a superlative boutique hotel with the most jovial, endearing staff who will deepen your love-affair with Santa Cruz.  From Puerto Ayora, I enjoyed a first-hand primer on the theory of evolution with a guided visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station. This living laboratory is the biggest biological research station on the Galapagos, over 65 years old and staffed by over 200 scientists and volunteers. It plays a critical role in the conservation of the archipelago’s ecosystem, including monitoring invasive species like the ghastly vampire fly. I was also struck by the similarities to New Zealand’s predator-control endeavours, because the colonisation of the Galapagos also saw the introduction of animals that went feral like goats, pigs, dogs, and cats. Feral cats prey on tortoise eggs and babies whose shells haven’t hardened. The starring attraction at the station is their captive breeding programme for 11 sub-species of tortoise. It was the first of two intimate encounters I had with the Galapagos giant tortoise on Santa Cruz Island.   Giant tortoises at Charles Darwin Research Station. Photo / Mike Yardley With Darwin’s finches flitting about overhead, paths lead through arid-zone vegetation taking you past enormous tortoise enclosures, where you can gaze in awe at these Galápagos giants, of all shapes and sizes. There's even a baby-tortoise house with incubators, that specialises in rebuilding the subspecies tortoise population on their respective islands. The shape of tortoise shells varies from island to island. These tortoises are generally repatriated to their home islands, once they turn four years.   Their breeding programme is highly acclaimed as one of the most successful conservation programmes on the planet. To date, over 7,000 tortoises have been released from the Charles Darwin Research Station and are now living successfully in the wild. But it’s a long game being played, because these tortoises don’t reach sexual maturity until they are in their 20s and can live in captivity for about 150 years. One of their most famous breeding tortoises was Diego, who since 1976 sired 900 offspring, earning him the nickname, Super Diego. Now a centenarian, he was retired to Espanola to live out his golden years five years ago.  Baby tortoises at Charles Darwin Research Station. Photo / Mike Yardley  My guide Alexis remarked that across the archipelago, there are approximately 25,000 giant tortoises. Saved from near extinction, their population was previously estimated at 250,000 prior to the arrival of pirates and buccaneers in the 17th and 18th century. Volcanic activity was traditionally the way nature controlled the population. Up to 200,000 tortoises were exterminated within a couple of centuries, hunted almost to extinction. These slow-moving creatures were an ideal protein source for mariners spending months at sea. Alexis described how it would have typically taken six men to carry a giant tortoise onto a ship, tied up with rope and attached to poles.   Most historical accounts of Darwin’s voyage to the Galapagos on HMS Beagle claim that he and his crew ate 30 giant tortoises.  Darwin noted their flesh had a particularly delicious buttery taste and texture. However, it’s also believed several juvenile tortoises were taken home alive to England, according to Captain FitzRoy’s account of the voyage. (FitzRoy later became the second Governor of New Zealand.)  Most historians conclude that one of the tortoises ended up in Brisbane in 142, transported down under by John Wickham who was the Beagle’s first lieutenant. Named Harriet, she initially resided in the Brisbane Botanical Gardens and spent the last two decades of her life under the care of the Irwin family at Australia Zoo. She died in 2006 at the estimated age of 175.     After taking in the rich history at the research station, an even more transfixing tortoise encounter awaited me in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island. An unmissable highlight of my Viva Expeditions tour was visiting Rancho Primicias – the ultimate destination to admire these gentle, majestic giants. 700 metres above the sea level on Santa Cruz Island, the lush, jungle-like vegetation is tortoise nirvana and this is the oldest privately-owned nature sanctuary adjoining the national park. I felt like I had entered Jurassic Park. It’s home to dozens of supersized, fully-grown giant tortoises, who from a distance could be mistaken for gigantic boulders, with their dark domes scattered amid the undulating meadow.    Mike and Mr Tortoise. Photo / Mike Yardley They are the greatest gardeners of the Galapagos, pruning trees, spreading seeds and bolstering the eco-system. I was amused by a Floridian tourist who was aghast to discover a grove of apple trees close to the path, called poisonous apple trees. Even their foliage is poisonous to humans. She loudly demanded to know why the trees hadn’t been chopped down to protect tourists. Giant tortoises love these trees and the apples – causing them no harm.   My guide advised me to approach the tortoises from behind, when getting right up-close to them, so as not to stress them.  I intimately admired the leathery scales on their legs and the claws on their feet. I watched them wallow with great pleasure in mud ponds, which protects them from parasites and helps regulate body temperature. Weighing in at over 250kg, they have very limited agility and every movement seems exhaustingly slow and deliberate. If a tick is making a giant tortoise itchy behind his ear, he cannot scratch it. Instead, he invites mockingbirds and finches to pick off the ticks by stretching up from the ground and lifting his head. The birds get a free meal and the tortoise is happy. One of the tortoises stretched out his wizened old face right in front of me. They bear a striking resemblance to Stephen Spielberg's ET. But the biggest fun fact I gleaned about the world’s largest living species of tortoise is the fact that they can survive for up to a year without food or water. Remarkable.  While you’re in the highlands, more enticements await, with Rancho Primicias just a stone’s throw from some staggering feats of nature. First up, Los Gemelos. These twin volcanic craters were formed by the collapse of empty magma chambers after a volcanic uprising. A lovely walking trail leads up to and around the rim of both craters. The hike takes you through the soothing Scalesia Forest, brimming with bird life, including Galápagos doves and Darwin's finches.   I then jaunted through a 1km-long lava tube. This impressive underground tunnel, by the village of Santa Rosa, was formed when the outside skin of a molten-lava flow solidified. When the lava flow ceased, the molten lava inside the flow kept going, emptying out of the solidified skin and thus leaving the serpentine tunnel. It was a thrill to walk through - which has pleasingly been illuminated. On the 30-minute drive back down to Puerto Ayora, I noticed some roadside tortoise crossing signs. Sure enough, I saw some grazing in the fields and even a couple of ancient, reptilian big boys enjoying a siesta on the road! Only in the Galapagos.  The lava tunnels on Santa Cruz. Photo / Supplied I travelled to the Galapagos with Viva Expeditions who know Ecuador inside-out. Their ground partners, Metropolitan Touring, boast an incomparable portfolio of luxury Ecuadoran travel products including La Pinta cruises in the Galapagos and the Finch Bay Hotel. With Viva Expeditions, you’ll enjoy premium, meaningful travel experiences, with a down-to-earth approach. You’ll meet local people, experience authentic food and culture and stay in distinctive accommodation. Viva’s 24/7 on-the-ground local support and expertise ensures you’ll be safe and secure. Explore Ecuador and beyond with New Zealand’s proven experts in travel to South America. vivaexpeditions.com  Jet your way to Ecuador with LATAM. Latin America’s leading airline group connects Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru with the world, including direct flights from Auckland to Santiago, with onward connections to Quito. latam.com   Explore the world with the trusted name in travel insurance, Cover-More Travel Insurance, which has you covered with added safeguards, over and above the typical travel cover, for the likes of medical treatment. In addition to single-trip cover, multi-trip annual cover is another great option, wherever you want to go. Check out the full range of protections and tailor the level of cover to your requirements. Cover-More’s 24 hour global assistance centre is just a phone call away. covermore.co.nz   Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.   Sat, 21 Jun 2025 00:28:27 Z /lifestyle/travel/bay-of-islands-cruise-visits-plummet-amid-tough-rules-rising-costs/ /lifestyle/travel/bay-of-islands-cruise-visits-plummet-amid-tough-rules-rising-costs/ The Bay of Islands’ $23.34 million cruise ship industry will be hit hard next season with the number of visiting ships set to plummet. Bookings for the tourist destination’s 2025/26 cruise season have almost halved from their peak two years ago. A cruise ship representative blamed the decline on a number of factors affecting New Zealand’s cruise industry, including tougher biofouling rules and compounding cost increases from central government, ports and regional authorities. However, a Ministry for Primary Industries spokesman said the main drivers of the downturn appeared to be rising operational costs and global economic factors, rather than biofouling regulations. There are 47 cruise ships scheduled to visit the Bay of Islands for the coming season. This compares with 92 cruise ships booked for the peak 2023/24 season. The coming season’s numbers continue an annual decline in bookings for the Bay of Islands since their peak. Bookings for the 2024/25 season were almost 20% down on 2023/24 as 74 ships were booked. New Zealand Cruise Association chairwoman Tansy Tompkins said the drop in numbers had many in the industry concerned about the future. “New Zealand’s booking momentum has slowed significantly, and while final itineraries are still being confirmed, current projections indicate a major downturn,” Tompkins said. The decline from the peak was “sobering” and she said the forecast for the coming season put New Zealand back to 2017/18 season levels. Tompkins said the risk of cruise ships being refused entry into New Zealand because of dirty hulls was one of several key reasons for the decline. The risk threatened the New Zealand cruise ship destination brand. Tougher biofouling rules were introduced for New Zealand in October 2023, just as the 2023/24 season began. Eighty-seven cruise ships arrived in Bay of Islands’ 2023/2024 season, meaning five scheduled vessels did not turn up. Four cruise ships did not turn up in the 2024/2025 season – including the last two for the season due on May 30 – because of weather, according to Far North Holdings chief operating officer Robert Binney. All cruise ships entering New Zealand must have no more than a thin layer of slime and goose barnacles on their hulls when they arrive. Biofouling can introduce foreign marine species, which can threaten the environment, economy and cultural values. It happens when too much sea life – including foreign algae, barnacles and other marine growth, such as shrimps and crabs – builds up on ship hulls. Tompkins said unpredictability around the introduction of new regulations also contributed to the decline. Cruise companies had to deal with the outcome of this when passengers booked up to two years in advance. In addition, New Zealand was now the world’s most expensive place for cruise ships to visit, with significant compounding cost increases including from central government, ports and regional authorities. This was putting New Zealand at a competitive disadvantage. She said senior cruise line executives had a perception New Zealand was difficult to operate in and an unwelcoming destination. Paul Hallett, Biosecurity NZ’s implementation and approvals manager, said biofouling requirements are in place to protect the environment and economy. No cruise ships were stopped from entering New Zealand waters during the 2024/25 summer season and the vast majority of vessels were highly compliant, Hallett said. The 2025/26 cruise season is forecast to feature 40 vessels – a small drop from the previous season, he said. “Our figures are based on the currently planned number of cruise vessels visiting New Zealand for the coming season. “Those cruise vessels may have multiple port visits and may visit a port more than once in each trip.” Biofouling regulations were developed in consultation with industry. The revised standard was designed to provide greater clarity for all vessels, including cruise ships – not to introduce new barriers, he said. “Our key biofouling requirements have now been in place for several years. “Rather than biofouling regulations, the main drivers of the [cruise ship] downturn appear to be rising operational costs – including port fees and fuel – and global economic factors such as inflation and exchange rates.” Biosecurity New Zealand remains committed to safeguarding the marine environment while supporting a thriving cruise sector, he said. ■ LDR is local body journalism co-funded by RNZ and NZ On Air. Thu, 19 Jun 2025 01:12:54 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-flying-cathay-pacific-to-europe/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-flying-cathay-pacific-to-europe/ If you’re planning a grand European holiday, Cathay Pacific has been busy spreading its wings across the continent this year. I’ve long been a fan of the award-winning Hong Kong-based carrier, who have just added Munich and Brussels to their extensive European network. Alongside these recent additions, the airline flies direct from Hong Kong to London, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Manchester, Milan, Paris, Zurich, Madrid and Barcelona, with well-timed connections for New Zealand services.  Connecting Kiwis to Hong Kong and beyond for over 40 years, Cathay Pacific’s extensive year-round Auckland services will be complemented with the resumption of seasonal summer services between Christchurch and Hong Kong, from December. Blending the best of cutting-edge entertainment technology and cabin design, I’m a big fan of the Airbus A350-900 and A350-1000.   Cathay Pacific was the first carrier to bring these aircraft models to New Zealand, who proudly operate one of the youngest fleets in the world. Technologically advanced, the A350 aircraft feature a range of comfort-focused innovations which reduce noise levels and lower the effective cruising cabin altitude, which is a big boost to well-being, helping to mitigate passenger fatigue.   Cathay Pacific A350 above Hong Kong. Supplied They’re remarkably fuel-efficient too, treading softer on the environment. But it’s the whisper-quiet ambience and LED mood lighting that is particularly impressive, delivering such a calm cabin experience. Wi-Fi is available on board across all classes, so you can surf the internet, sort your emails, and stay connected on social media. The next-generation HD personal entertainment system, boasting Asia-Pacific’s most extensive entertainment library in the air, from the latest Hollywood releases and HBO Max to live satellite TV news channels including CNN and the BBC.  Premium Economy continues to prove to exceptionally popular with Kiwis flying long-haul. Cathay’s offering is an excellent mid-range option, where you’ll enjoy a generous seat recline, expanded legroom and a supported head rest. Full-length calf rests and leather-padded footrests accentuate the comfort. An award-winning selection of wines and beverages are on-hand to complement your meal.  Accompaniments include larger pillows, softer blankets, a Bamford amenity kit, welcome drinks, complimentary water bottle and an enticing array of entrees and snacks. In Premium Economy, enjoy double the checked baggage allowance – 2 pieces of up to 23kg per bag.  Cathay Pacific Premium Economy. Supplied If you’re up at the pointy end, the A350’s Business Class offering includes enhanced frills such as fully-flat beds which are three inches longer than their predecessors, plus extra stowage space within easy reach. I enjoyed ample sleep time, thanks to the indulgent comfort lying fully flat, nestled in luxurious 400-thread-count Bamford bedlinen.   My ‘bedtime pack’ featured a padded seat mattress, Bamford duvet, super plump pillow and slippers. The shell design of the Business seats accentuates the sense of space, privacy and peace.  Bamford goodies also filled the amenity bags, including face mist, eye shades, hand moisturiser, lip balm, toothbrush, paste and mouthwash.  Progressively being rolled-out on long-haul services, the new Aria Suites business class product is a major advance for Cathay. I was lucky enough to experience the new product on my return flight from London on a Boeing 777. Artfully designed, privacy is to the fore with a sleek wrap-around seat design, suite door and sliding partition. The spacious life-flat beds feature premium leather headrests and ethically sourced wool.   Aria Suite on Cathay Pacific. Credit Mike Yardley I slept like a lamb. If you’d rather stay awake, movie night in the skies is immersive, with a 24-inch 4K personal screen, with Bluetooth audio streaming. Everything is at your fingertips with enhanced touchscreen sensitivity for fast, precise navigation. You can even check which lavatories are free onscreen before leaving your seat! There’s so many thoughtful touches like wireless charging and intuitively designed storage spaces.  Cathay’s contemporary Business menu showcases bold international flavours, classic Hong Kong favourites and light, healthy options, complemented with fine wines, champagnes, premium spirits and their handcrafted pale ale, Betsy beer. I generally avoid alcohol on flights, so I’d definitely recommend their Cathay Delight mocktail - a deliciously reviving blend of kiwi fruit, coconut milk and fresh mint.  From refreshing breakfasts and sophisticated dinners to cheeky midnight snacks, you can expect around-the-clock, high-end restaurant standard dining. Cathay Pacific is currently collaborating with two Michelin-starred restaurants. Louise excels in refined and reimagined French cuisine, while Duddell’s is a renowned Michelin-rated Hong Kong venue showcasing curated homestyle dishes for flights out of Hong Kong.   Burger in the sky. Credit Mike Yardley For dinner, I feasted on the most succulent sweet and sour braised pork ribs with hawthorn sauce and green apples. Sometimes, you just need a burger! In the middle of the night, somewhere over Kazakhstan, I was feeling peckish so ordered up their classic beef burger. It was the first time I have ever tried a burger at 35,000 feet – and it was remarkably tasty. Book-ended in a brioche bun, the combination of bacon, tomato, pickled onions, cheese and zucchini, hit the spot with precision. Another highlight was the lavish full English breakfast – the best I’ve experienced in-flight.  Full English breakfast on cathay. Credit Mike Yardley With three Business Class lounges on offer at Hong Kong Airport, The Pier is Cathay Pacific’s largest airport lounge, inspired by Hong Kong’s indelible experiences. Feast on the city’s flavours and expansive home comforts at your leisure, from the delightfully elegant Teahouse to the wildly popular Noodle Bar. I also loved the deli-style Food Hall, brimming with quick bites like tapas, cheese boards, salads and fish platters. For best fares and seats to suit, head to www.cathaypacific.com/nz  Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at  11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.           Mon, 16 Jun 2025 02:31:46 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-afloat-with-the-wonders-of-the-galapagos/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-afloat-with-the-wonders-of-the-galapagos/ Do the Galapagos sea lions know how good they have got it? Sprawled across the pristine beaches, they wallow, snooze, and frolic across the powder-white stretches of sand, blissfully unconcerned by curious passers-by entering their slice of paradise on a goggle-eyed shore excursion. In fact, some of the sea lions waddled up to greet us into their realm of unrivalled wonder. The Galapagos grips you good, and doesn’t let go. I’m fresh back from my maiden visit to this extraordinary group of islands with Viva Expeditions, enjoying a four-night cruise aboard the magnificent La Pinta.  Recently refreshed from tip to toe, this elegant small ship is perfectly proportioned for Galapagos cruising, with a capacity for just 48 guests and over 30 crew, delivering an ultra-attentive, personable experience. My generously sized cabin had a fresh, soothing design palette, complete with floor-to-ceiling window and superb ensuite. The daily towel art was extra-imaginative. Despite being an expedition ship, La Pinta certainly doesn’t skimp on luxury comforts, adorned with sophisticated yet relaxed decks and lounges.   Accommodation on La Pinta. Photo / Supplied The canopied sun deck fast became a favourite spot to survey the scenery over a few cocktails, complete with alfresco dining area, bar and hot tub. Watching a fireball sunset torch the skyline with a brushstroke of ethereal colours, over pre-dinner drinks, became an essential twilight spectacle. The main restaurant presented exquisitely divine dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I feasted on so many memorable dishes, carefully curated by a Le Cordon Bleu gastronomic director. But it was the ocean-fresh seafood that constantly shone, binging on Neptune’s bounty. The supersized shrimps were commonly mistaken for prawns because they were so ginormous and bursting with flavour.  My fellow table guests featured a French male model and Hollywood actor, along with a Dutch psychiatrist. Yes, it sounds like the opening line to a joke! Swiftly bonding, we got on like a house on fire. Nature’s pulling power is magnetic with young professionals. There were so many perky thirty-somethings aboard the cruise, I felt decidedly aged! Our charismatic waiter Wilson attended to our table for every meal service, underscoring La Pinta’s winning brand of personal guest service. The sparkling Ecuadorian crew were understandably fuelled with pride in sharing their rarefied pocket of the world with us. And they were unfailingly outgoing, effervescent and hospitable.  Cruising the Galapagos on La Pinta. Photo / Mike Yardley My four-night cruise began after the 90-minute flight from the Ecuadorian mainland, touching down on Baltra Island, a flat slab of rock thrust out of the ocean by geological uplift. The airport was established by the United States Air Force during WWII. The short bus ride shuttled us to the dock where we boarded one of La Pinta’s zodiacs (which are called panga in Ecuador), zipping us over to the ship. The panga rides became a fond feature of our cruise experience, because all the islands we visited entailed tendering ashore in these whip-smart zodiacs. Accentuating the experience, every shore excursion was escorted by one La Pinta’s naturalist guides, with a very small-group of guests – no bigger than 10. Sharing the experience with such a small, intimate group of fellow travellers heightened every natural encounter, immeasurably. My main guide was Alexis, who was like a male Alexa. You could ask him anything about the Galapagos and he’d deliver a commanding, enlightening answer.  My four-night cruise threaded together the eastern islands of the Galapagos archipelago, marvelling over the diverse landscapes, iridescent waters and abundant wildlife. The eastern group are the oldest islands, with the newer islands rising from the west, principally shaped by eruptions. Our first stop was South Plaza Island where the turquoise waters of the channel pop in the sunlight, contrasting dramatically with the fiery hues of the volcanic terrain. Unfurling like a magic carpet, scarlet sesuvium succulents sprawled across the lower slopes, studded with a grove of luminescent green prickly-pear cactus. It was here that I enjoyed my first rendezvous with a yellow-grey land iguana, one of the “Big 15” wildlife heroes of the Galapagos.   Their yellow colour is a result of eating so many cacti. You might even spot them rolling these prickly plants in the sand to blunt the spikes. Another South Plaza highlight was standing above the cliffs and watching the sea birds riding the thermals. Frigatebirds are a highlight here – scanning the sea for fish, swooping down to catch it in flight. The males have the most fascinating bright red throat skin sacks which inflate to form heart-shaped balloons, when courting the females.     Santa Fe Island is fawned over for its picture-perfect sandy-white beaches, heavily populated by hordes of nonchalant, cavorting sea lions. We admired the Santa Fe land iguana, another endemic species only found on this island. Fully kitted out with snorkelling equipment and wet suits by La Pinta, the sublime clarity of the water off Santa Fe was begging to be explored. The watery world revealed more majesty, with sea lions, sea turtles and dolphins frolicking amongst our group, while a vast school of tropical fish flitted about in a carnival of colour.   Blissed out seal lions. Photo / Mike Yardley  Parrot fish are prolific in these parts, and I was intrigued to learn that they are responsible for creating many of the world’s white coral sand beaches. Those powder-white sands are the result of parrot fish poop, after they have tucked into the algae or polyps that form over coral. The average parrot fish poops out 450kg of sand a year! They are the great sand-makers of the Galapagos – and elsewhere.   San Cristobal Island delivered more indelible memories, disembarking at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the island’s bustling, colourful capital. If Galapagos is a byword for tortoises for you, you’ll enjoy several intimate encounters with these graceful giants. My first such experience was at the Cerro Colorado Tortoise Habitat, a magnificent breeding centre for these endangered species. Their lush, deciduous forest is home to dozens of bird species including another island endemic, the San Cristobal mockingbird. A personal highlight here was ogling the marine iguana, unique to the Galapagos, and a poster child for Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution.   These lizards began life as landlubbers before spreading throughout the archipelago, with marine adaptations, grazing on submersed algae at low tide. Their striking charcoal-colouring blends in perfectly with the lava rock of the islands. Speaking of Darwin, San Cristobal Island is also home to the most astonishing white coral beach, Cerro Brujo. Darwin walked these sands back in 1835, agog by the enormous colony of sea lions and birdlife. Trying to pick your favourite island in the Galapagos is like being asked to pick your favourite child. But Española Island is a perennial heart-stealer because it throngs with so much wildlife and striking scenery.   The star of the show is the Galapagos Albatross that heavily populates this blessed island. It is the only species of albatross that lives in the tropics and not only is this bird endemic to the Galapagos, but it has the dual distinction of exclusively being found on this island. I gazed in awe watching these enormous birds take flight, walking to the edge of the cliff face and stoically hurling themselves at the sea below, in order to gain speed for flight. Once again, you can get right up close with these magnificent residents, who have no fear of people.  Albatross awaiting take-off on Española Island. Photo / Mike Yardley  Backdropped by a gushing lava blowhole, another thrill at Española Island was to see so many blue-footed boobies. These clownish birds, with their electric blue feet, are comical to watch on land, because their ungainly walking style is highly reminiscent of circus clowns. But in flight, they transform into precision-hunting machines, with spectacular plunge-style dives underwater, to snare a fish. We also witnessed a mating dance, whereby the male exuberantly shows off his feet to his prospective girlfriend. Apparently, the females prefer a turquoise shade of blue to a deeper blue, and the shade of blue indicates how proficient the male is at catching fish and feeding himself.  On my last night aboard La Pinta, before disembarking for more natural glories at Santa Cruz Island, I was enjoying some night-caps in the inky darkness with some new-found British friends out on the sun deck. As we gazed down at the stern of the ship, over 30 sharks were on the prowl, circling directly beneath us, as flying fish did kamikaze acrobatic manoeuvres, playfully dicing with death. They were too quick for Jaws, but this mass-presence of sharks resolutely underscored what a wild, unplugged playground for nature the Galapagos is.   There are few places left on Earth where the wildlife shows no fear of humans, allowing you to observe it from just a couple of metres away. While on board the HMS Beagle, Darwin witnessed the Galapagos in complete isolation. La Pinta artfully keeps the faith with that supreme sense of solitude. When we stepped ashore, our small group felt like we had each island only to ourselves. It was a priceless experience with the Galapagos National Park – a living laboratory of evolution and scientific discovery, where the wildlife runs free. Swarming with sharks, crawling with critters, aflutter with remarkable birdlife, surrender to the primal pull of this striking archipelago. A Galapagos cruise is not just enticing, or addictive, but transformative.  Albattross encounters on Española Island. Photo / Mike Yardley I travelled to the Galapagos with Viva Expeditions who know Ecuador and South America inside-out. Their ground partners, Metropolitan Touring, boast an incomparable portfolio of luxury Ecuadoran travel products and experiences, including La Pinta cruises in the Galapagos. With Viva Expeditions, you’ll enjoy premium, meaningful travel experiences, with a down-to-earth approach. You’ll meet local people, experience authentic food and culture and stay in distinctive accommodation. Viva’s 24/7 on-the-ground local support and expertise ensures you’ll be safe and secure. Explore Ecuador and beyond with New Zealand’s proven experts in travel to South America. vivaexpeditions.com  Jet your way to Ecuador with LATAM. Latin America’s leading airline group connects Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru with the world, including direct flights from Auckland to Santiago, with onward connections to Quito. latam.com  Explore the world with the trusted name in travel insurance, Cover-More Travel Insurance, which has you covered with added safeguards, over and above the typical travel cover, for the likes of medical treatment. In addition to single-trip cover, multi-trip annual cover is another great option, wherever you want to go. Check out the full range of protections and tailor the level of cover to your requirements. Cover-More’s 24 hour global assistance centre is just a phone call away. covermore.co.nz   Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.  Fri, 13 Jun 2025 21:35:54 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-forest-magic-at-mashpi-lodge-ecuador/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-forest-magic-at-mashpi-lodge-ecuador/ Nestled on the western flank of the Andes, three hours northwest of Quito, I was swathed in the finery of the Chocó rainforest. Mashpi Lodge is an eco-tourism jewel, a five-star oasis within the wider Mashpi Reserve that serves up a resplendent rainforest encounter with the mighty Chocó. Truth be told, because the reserve traverses a wide altitude range, from 550 metres to 1400m, there’s the rainforest and the cloud forest. There’s a high level of endemism here, by the separation through the Andes. The forests on the western side of the Andes evolved entirely differently to the Amazon rainforest on the eastern side. To really make my head spin, geological history testifies that prior to the seismic uplift of the Andes, this was all one sprawling forest.  All senses engaged and stimulated, it’s the liberating and blissed-out sense of isolation that encircles you on arrival at Mashpi. And you’ll be warmly swept up by the sparkling hospitality laid on by the highly personable, outgoing and convivial lodge staff, throughout your stay. Gazing dreamily into the thickly textured forest greens, I felt a world away from civilisation. I was visiting this superlative eco-lodge and reserve as part of a fortnight-long foray to Ecuador with New Zealand’s trusty South American specialists, Viva Expeditions. And Mashpi Lodge is a showstopper. First up: location, location, location. Beyond the long, sinuous sprawl of Quito, the mountains rise up to meet you, as you pass through a swag of colourful hillside towns and sleepy villages on winding, undulating roads, pressing deeper into the forest’s embrace.   Running along the entire Colombian Pacific coast, from southwest Panama to northwest Ecuador, the Chocó rainforest region is characterised by extremely high precipitation and extraordinary species diversity. It’s like a tropical Fiordland, where the rainfall is measured in metres. Three metres is the average annual count. In a region wracked by deforestation, this pocket of the Ecuadorian Chocó is a rebounding treasure; former Quito Mayor Roque Sevilla purchased this 1200-hectare tract nearly 25 years ago to safeguard it in perpetuity. More than 90% of West Ecuador’s forests were deforested between 1938 and 1988 Today, Mashpi Reserve spans 3,000 hectares, with plenty of community buy-in that continues to expand its borders.  900 metres high, cocooned in the cloud forest, the head-turning, modernist lodge with supersized, panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows was built on the site of a former sawmill. And not a single tree was felled to construct this 23-room masterpiece.  Much of it was pre-assembled in Quito, to minimise the environmental impact of construction. Awakening to an unobstructed forest vista, in my spacious, stylish suite, veils of mist ethereally danced through the canopy at daybreak, as unfamiliar birdsong pierced the silence. The lavish use of glass ingeniously ensures the lodge is not in competition with nature’s finery – it provides a window on the wonders of such lush foliage.   Mashpi Lodge in the forest. Photo / Mashpi Lodge It soon becomes vividly self-explanatory why Mashpi is such a mecca for twitchers, because it’s ranked as one of the world’s top 10 bio-diversity hotspots by WWF. A quarter of all of Ecuador’s avian species are found here. 400 species have been documented at Mashpi, including 35 species endemic to the Chocó region. So many birds, so little time. So what are some of the big hitters? I was all aflutter with the hummingbirds, because Mashpi boasts a staggering 32 species of these remarkable little birds that seemingly hover like levitating monks.   A runaway highlight was visiting the hummingbird garden with my expedition guide Paolo, where within minutes of refilling the feeders, the air was ablaze with these feathered friends. I marvelled over so many species Purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Purple-throated Woodstar and the Booted Racket-Tail. As its name suggests, this bird’s tail resembles two squash rackets. Hummingbirds are engrossing to watch up-close, seemingly unperturbed by your presence as they do their mesmerising dance, while filling up from the feeders. Their wings do emit a humming noise, as if they are motorised – and they’re the only bird that can fly backwards.   The booted racket-tail hummingbird. Photo / Supplied String birds and South America into the same sentence and it’s the Toucan that springs to mind for me. I adore them – and Mashpi heaves with these cartoonish looking birds with those enormous cylindrical beaks, including the Chocó Toucan (all yellow and black) and the Pale Mandibled Aracari Toucan. Another thrill was to intimately observe the Collared Trogon, with its fire-engine red belly and vivid green upper body. The Squirrel Cuckoo and the Woodpeckers are equally delightful birds to add to your bingo card. Yes, twitching can become effortlessly addictive, before you even know it!   Paolo and the expedition team led me and a lovely couple from Geelong to Mashpi’s Life Center, which is an abundant breeding centre for butterfly species – to enhance scientific research. It also serves as a stirring butterfly farm for close communion with these critters. Butterflies serve as a great barometer on the state of the forest and whether it’s a healthy ecosystem. Mashpi is home to almost 800 species, including the truly remarkable Giant Owl-eye butterflies. When two of these darlings perch together, their wings form the face of an owl, duly scaring off predators. It’s like nature’s trusty version of the Evil Eye!  Two giant owl-eye butterflies. Photo / Mike Yardley For a complete change of scenery, take a night walk with the expedition team to sample nocturnal life in the forest. We spotted vine snakes slithering in the trees – from a safe distance. One of the most wondrous spectacles was the fox fire, an Avatar-like luminous fungus. James Cameron couldn’t improve on that. By day, you’ll swoon over the plethora of orchids and bromeliads, as you stroll the forest trails. Given the propensity for rain, the lodge will happily kit you out in wet weather gear – and gumboots, if and when required.   Mashpi Lodge offers a myriad array of expeditions and activities from full-day guided hikes and waterfall swims, to their Dragonfly open-air gondola and positively riveting Sky Bike. The latter is similar to a zip line strung across the forest canopy, but the novel point of difference is you pedal your way across the skyline, with a gorge 200-feet below you, with a river flowing between the rocks and dense forest. This ingenious activity is designed for two people to use at once, with the back-seat rider doing the pedalling. It’s a 200 metre-long traverse on that high-wire cable and my legs certainly got a solid workout, steaking across the cloud forest. Thankfully, there were no close encounters with vine snakes. The views are celestial.  Mashpi Lodge Sky Bike. Photo / Mashpi Lodge Every evening, Mashpi’s naturalist guides and resident biologists conduct group talks, sharing even more wonders about this rarefied pocket of the world. You’ll learn about ongoing research projects, conservation initiatives and the natural history of the region. Their passion and dedication is palpable and infectious. You certainly won’t skimp on indulgences at the lodge, with a comprehensive wellness centre, should you wish to treat yourself to some serious spa pampering.   The bar and restaurant is another radiant feature, with exemplary mixology and top-notch cuisine, served within the two-storey dining room, slathered in glass. Exemplifying the personable nature of Mashpi, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, you’ll be attended to by the same waiter for every dining occasion. My charismatic waiter, Jorje, was a delight to get to know over the most divinely executed Ecuadorian dishes, that spanned delectable Ceviche, Mountain Stew with those gorgeous miniature Andrean potatoes, Chicken Tamales and Chia Spaghetti. Lodge menus celebrate the best of both worlds —surf and turf— wedged between the coast and the towering Andes.  Mashpi Lodge restaurant. Photo / Mashpi Lodge Mashpi Lodge is the complete package, encompassing luxurious accommodations, splendid dining, and tailored nature experiences to suit your preferences. But beyond being enrobed by the unplugged glories of nature, what really shines through is the exceptional level of warm and gracious hospitality that soon makes you feel at home and part of the family in this extraordinary natural sanctuary. Within minutes of arriving, one of the chirpy staff members Alexin shot a drone video of me, gazing out across the vast cloud forest from the observation deck.   He swiftly sent it to me, so I could impress my family on the grandeur, serenity and sheer scale of Mashpi Reserve. He does that for every guest and it’s those sorts of thoughtful, innovative touches that makes such a deep impression. Nature is the greatest balm to sooth your soul and exalt your spirits. Mashpi Lodge swirls with enchantment. It’s an irresistible Ecuadorian experience to thread into your adventures when visiting this most seductive of destinations.  Mike surveys the setting at Mashpi Lodge. Photo / Mike Yardley Viva Expeditions knows South America inside-out. They offer premium, meaningful travel experiences, with a down-to-earth approach. You’ll meet local people, experience authentic food and culture and stay in local, boutique accommodation. Viva’s 24/7 on-the-ground local support and expertise ensures you’ll be safe and secure. Explore Ecuador and beyond with New Zealand’s proven experts in travel to South America. www.vivaexpeditions.com   Jet your way to Ecuador with LATAM. Latin America’s leading airline group connects Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru with the world, including direct flights from Auckland to Santiago, with onward connections to Quito. www.latam.com  Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame. Sat, 07 Jun 2025 01:10:56 Z /lifestyle/travel/kiwi-mum-s-warning-after-son-s-finger-sliced-on-flight-from-auckland-to-singapore/ /lifestyle/travel/kiwi-mum-s-warning-after-son-s-finger-sliced-on-flight-from-auckland-to-singapore/ WARNING: This story contains graphic images A Kiwi mum is warning parents to stay vigilant when flying after her son’s index finger was severely cut during a flight from Auckland to Singapore. The Auckland-based family were two hours into a 10-hour Singapore Airlines flight from Auckland to Singapore’s Changi Airport on May 1, when they heard their 18-month-old son scream in pain. “I turned around and was like, ‘What’s happening? I don’t even know what’s going on’,” the mum, who asked not to be named, told the Herald. The family were seated in a bassinet row where tray tables are located in the armrest and fold out. Unbeknownst to the mother of two, her 5-year-old son had accidentally shut his infant brother’s index finger in the pop-up tray table mechanism. “My oldest was getting his tray table out, and my youngest was walking around and stuck his finger in the hole where the tray table comes out,” the mother explained. “I couldn’t get his finger out. And then finally realised that I had to lift up the flat part to get it back into the hole and got it.” Once she released the finger, she saw it had not only been crushed, but there was “a massive cut through the tip of his finger”. The finger when cleaned at the doctor's. Their son immediately began to scream and flight attendants came to assist, however, the mother claims one of the flight attendants poured a packet of sugar on the injury to “stop the bleeding”. She claims another flight attendant then bandaged up her son’s entire hand, and eventually they were able to settle him for a short sleep before he woke, bleeding and distressed, and another passenger offered help. “I think the adrenaline wore off – he just woke up, and he’s screaming because he was in pain. Then we realised there’s a man behind us who was travelling with his daughter, and he gave us some Pamol and then he calmed down a bit.” A bandage was placed on the toddler's hand by airline staff. The family claim the airline eventually also offered pain relief and suggested they could page a doctor if the bleeding went through the bandage. The mother says the family were not only trying to make their son feel better, but also were conscious of the experience for other passengers and felt “embarrassed”. “I’m wanting my son to be okay and comfortable and not in pain. But ... also, you’re super conscious that you’re keeping up the entire flight.” When their flight landed in Singapore, the boys’ mum claims the crew promised an airport buggy would be waiting to transport them to the medical clinic, after they were held back to fill out some paperwork on the plane. But she says when they finally got off, there was no buggy or staff, despite repeated promises. “No one knew what we were talking about. There was no one there for us,” the mother tells the Herald. She says eventually they found a member of ground staff who helped them find a medical clinic so their son could be seen. “We had to rush through the airport, basically because we’d wasted more time, and we had to get our next flight and back from the clinic.” The family were on the first leg of their journey from Auckland to London, where they were travelling for a family wedding. They were seen by a doctor who glued and bandaged the finger, at a cost of $400, before racing to their flight. The family were eventually seen by a doctor, who glued and bandaged the 1-year-old's finger. Back home a month later, the mother says her son is still recovering from the injury, but is doing well. “He’ll have a scar on the tip of the finger, his nail has come off, but that will grow back, I think. I don’t know if he will have feeling in that fingertip – I don’t know if it’s nerve damage.” Having also had time to process what occurred on the flight, the mother says she is speaking out to serve as a warning, hoping to prevent it happening to another family. “My main message is just if you’re in the situation, make sure you watch your kids when they’re putting out the tray tables, make sure there’s no little hands around.” She also believes airlines have their part to play in keeping tamariki safe too. “Urge parents to keep their kids’ fingers and toes away. They need to do that before the flight takes off, or even just have a sticker or a sign in that area to watch out,” she added. On the family’s flight home with Air New Zealand, she says crew gave a PA announcement before meal services about keeping children’s fingers clear of tray tables She claims she did not hear a warning on the Singapore Airlines flight. Singapore Airlines does not have specific warnings on board around tray tables. In response to the Herald’s inquiries about the incident and the mother’s claims, Singapore Airlines said it “sincerely apologises” to the family. “Our cabin crew immediately administered first aid to the passenger after they were alerted to the incident, and checked on him and his family regularly during the flight. “We are in contact with the family to provide the necessary assistance, and wish the affected passenger a speedy recovery.” The airline added that “the safety and well-being of our customers and crew is our utmost priority.” Jenni Mortimer is the NZ Herald‘s chief lifestyle and entertainment reporter. Jenni started at the Herald in 2017 and has previously worked as lifestyle, entertainment and travel editor. Wed, 04 Jun 2025 03:51:31 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-nature-s-embrace-in-arrowtown-gibbston/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-nature-s-embrace-in-arrowtown-gibbston/ As Arrowtown glowed in its golden, fiery blaze of autumnal hues, it was a thrill to be back in this treasure-chest township, cradled by nature’s splendour. It’s one of my all-time favourite holiday playgrounds and I was eager for a fresh dip from its glorious offerings. My first stop was The Dishery for a spot of lunch. Expect bistro dining at its best, where locally sourced ethical fresh food underpins its alluring menu. Ever since the goldrush era of the 19th century, the Dudley’s Cottage Precinct where The Dishery is located, has been a social hub. Adjoining the historic Chinese Settlement, this where goldminers would converge to exchange their gold for basic human comforts. The Dishery takes its name from those heady days. Back then, the pan you worked the goldfields with was also the dish you ate your food from. I adored their linguine with confit Remarkable mushrooms, chilli, and parmesan.   Delightful dishes at The Dishery. Photo / QueenstownNZ Suitably fuelled, I headed next door to the rental-cycle powerhouse of Better by Bike. Mat Hirst has been at the handlebars of this family business since the Queenstown Trails Trust was established 23 years ago. This charitable organisation has helped transform the region’s outdoorsy pursuits, guiding the development of over 200km of recreational trails throughout the Whakatipu Basin. At last count, over 300,000 users hit these trails every year. Whether you’re a seasoned pro on two wheels, or just an occasional recreational enthusiast like myself, the blaze of trails is ever-expanding. Last year, the Wharehuanui Trail was opened (close to Arrowtown), while just a few weeks ago, the stunning Shotover Gorge Trail joined the mix, lacing up the northern edge of the Whakatipu basin with the wider network.  One of the starring attractions of the Shotover Gorge Trail is the 108 metre-long Hugo Tunnel, named in honour of the Hugo Charitable Trust that funded its restoration. Over a century ago, this tunnel was constructed to divert the river for gold mining. Sixty years ago, the historic tunnel at Big Beach was abandoned as unfit for purpose. But now it’s been repurposed as quite the frisson for walkers and cyclists, as is the construction of the iconic Kimi-ākau Bridge, strung across the Shotover Gorge as jet boats thunder beneath you.   Shotover Gorge Trail. Photo / Arrowtown Meanwhile, a mega-project that is on track to be completed by summer is the 32km Kawarau Gorge Trail, which will link the Gibbston Valley with Bannockburn, connecting up with the Lake Dunstan Trail. Mark that in your diary! From Arrowtown, some cracking rides include the Gibbston River Trail. Following on from the Arrow River Bridges Trail, this beautifully scenic trail passes by the historic Kawarau Suspension Bridge and AJ Hackett Kawarau Bungy Centre, leading into the vine-wreathed slopes of Gibbston’s wine country. Kitted out by Better by Bike with a trusty e-bike, helmet and water bottle, I hit the pedals on the Ayrburn Loop Trail, tootling through Millbrook before joining the Lakes Hayes trail.   A vision of gold in autumn, the 8km loop trail around Lake Hayes offers soulful mountain and lake vistas, historic cottages (look out for the schist cottage featured in the Mainland cheese ad) and intimate snatches of some of the swanky new builds. The trail is narrow in sections with steep drop offs down to the lake, but the e-bike handled it beautifully. Over the past five years, a mammoth community-led project has been steadily revitalising the health of Lake Hayes. Restoration work has included creating a 2.8ha wetland at the northern end, riparian planting and predator control.  Glorious Lake Hayes. Photo / Supplied  On the return run to Arrowtown, I popped into the region’s hottest new playground for foodies. Ayrburn is the Chris Meehan-developed family-friendly precinct that opened 18 months ago and has cultivated a red-hot following for its glittering array of wining and dining venues, all set within a reimagined historic farm estate. It’s like a wow-factor rustic resort for epicureans. For 160 years, this was a working sheep, wheat and dairy farm, but the estate has been radiantly and thoughtfully transformed into a multi-venue culinary and events destination, while honouring its past. Enjoy a wine tasting in the Manure Room where prohibition saw tipplers evade authorities and marvel over the shining bronze statues of Ayrburn’s founding owner, William Paterson’s prized Clydesdale and ram.   The manicured landscapes and trove of repurposed heritage buildings instantly stir the senses. Bring the kids, there’s plenty of room to play – and the playground installations are superb, including a giant trout and duck you can wiggle through and slide down. There’s an unmistakeable old-world charm to Ayrburn and every meticulously restored venue exudes its own distinctive vibe. The showpiece venue would have to be the Woolshed, where the heritage elements from the original shearing shed structure have been fused with contemporary art, stone finishes and a spell-binding alfresco dining setting. I loved the Manure Room which serves as a discerning cellar door for Ayrburn Wines.   The Manure Room at Ayrburn. Photo / QueenstownNZ Ayrburn’s winemakers source grapes from every pocket of Central Otago —Bendigo, Gibbston, Bannockburn— in order to craft a truly exceptional drop, and Manure Room is the only place you can find them. Ayrburn’s central social lawn and stage, The Dell, is another superb space, which is increasingly turning heads with its outdoor concerts and events. Eight venues are now open, including the insatiably popular Bakehouse and Dairy, with more alluring venues in the works.   Back in Arrowtown, as the setting sun slumped behind the mountains, I took a leisurely stroll along the beating heart of Buckingham St. One of the great goldrush legacies is Arrowtown’s expansive collection of colonial stone and timber cottages, fairytale churches and tree-lined avenues. History hounds? Stop by the Lakes District Museum which presents some fascinating displays on Arrowtown’s rich, pioneering history. The museum’s cluster of gorgeous old properties now includes the original BNZ building, which has been lustily restored to its former glory.  Right across the road, I pulled up a seat at The Postmasters Kitchen + Bar. Sam Layock and his family have operated this sublime restaurant for 12 years and it’s an evocative spot for dinner. The all-embracing menu will satisfy all tastes, but after much dithering over the temptations, I settled on the Gnocchi with Napoli sauce, semi-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, parsley and ricotta. Magnifico. Stretch out some stomach space for a sweet ending. The rich and moist Sticky Date pudding with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream is irresistible.   If you’re a Pinot Noir devotee like me, Gibbston Valley has a siren-like pull. Home to some of the most awarded Pinot Noir winemakers and wineries on the planet, this small but bountiful valley punches well above its weight on the global scale. Accentuate the seduction by booking a luxury stay at Mt. Rosa Lodge. Introducing Michelle and Stuart, who are the most exceptional, convivial and welcoming hosts. They will treat you royally in their celestial pocket of Gibbston wonder, perched on the higher slopes of the valley.   Mt Rosa Lodge in the Gibbston Valley. Photo / Supplied Welcome to viewissimo! Mt Rosa Lodge is set on their private vineyard, with just three luxuriously appointed suites, each with its own distinct personality and colour palette. They’re loaded with creature comforts – the underfloor heating is a godsend on a crisp and crackling morning! The generously sized suites, feature private en-suites, private terraces, top-quality linens and premium bathroom amenities for added indulgence. Inspired by the character of top-end chalets and guesthouses, the accommodation experience extends to the gorgeous, art-filled guest lounge area, where Michelle and Stuart will treat you to their wines and a lavish breakfast (Michelle’s sour dough is exceptional).  Be sure to partake in a vineyard stroll with Stuart. Their wine, La Bella Rosa, is crafted exclusively from the Pinot Noir grapes cultivated at the Mt Rosa Lodge vineyard, making its debut in 2008. specifically clone 777. La Bella Rosa is meticulously produced on a small scale, yielding just 4-5 barrels annually, with the founder of Gibbston Valley Wines, Alan Brady overseeing the creation of their wine, while Brian Shaw is their esteemed winemaker.   For more discerning sampling and swilling, book an appointment with the neighbouring Coxs’ Vineyard, which is a second generation, family-run vineyard in Gibbston, established by Doug Cox. His son Simon is now at the helm, producing single vineyard wines and his elegant Pinot Noir has perfumed aromas and subtle spice. This bespoke and tranquil lodge experience is wreathed in the authentic warmth of homely hospitality, where you soon feel like a treasured house guest, rather than a passing visitor. You’d struggle to find a better boutique retreat experience, in such a remarkable setting – the Valley of the Vines.   Nestled at an elevation of 482 metres, you will never tire of the sense of space, the sweeping bucolic vistas across the undulations of the valley and gazing at the high peaks of the surrounding ranges. Then there are the starry starry nights. Gibbston Valley is part of the Kawarau Gibbston Dark Sky Park. Its remote location and minimal light pollution are pitch-perfect for gazing at the constellations. Mt Rosa Lodge offers exceptional astronomy packages led by local astronomer, Professor Brian Boyle. With a distinguished career spanning over 35 years, Brian directed Australia's two largest professional observatories and was a key member of the team responsible for the groundbreaking discovery of Dark Energy. Taking a journey through the cosmos above Gibbston with Brian is just another drawcard to Mt Rosa Lodge. www.mtrosalodge.co.nz The night sky over Mt Rosa Lodge. Photo / Supplied Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.  Sat, 31 May 2025 01:47:06 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-regenerative-glories-of-glenorchy/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-regenerative-glories-of-glenorchy/ There’s so much more to wild and woolly Glenorchy than that iconic, historic red shed. Since 1885, the wharf shed has served as a sentinel to the idyllic hamlet’s ebbs and flows, principally deployed as a storage depot for goods transported to and from Glenorchy on steamboats. Nowadays, the photogenic shed’s insta-fame is a constant, in addition to serving as a museum, charting the history of the area.  Glenorchy is the most restorative, escapist antidote to the buzz and bling of Queenstown’s tourist tempo. Graced by the upper reaches of Lake Whakatipu and the wrapround embrace of serrated, snow-clad peaks, it’s a sigh-inducing and soul-raising setting that I could never tire off. And Glenorchy struts its sustainability stripes at every turn. The Queenstown Lakes region is walking the talk on regenerative tourism and Glenorchy is a star-specimen for the Tiaki promise in action (hearty hospitality and a deeply-held commitment of caring for the environment); and it’s where sustainability is steeped in the DNA of so many operators and enterprises.   Mrs Woolly's General Store. Image supplied Serenading your arrival into Glenorchy, make your first stop Mrs Woolly’s General Store. From nutritious chef-made takeaway foods for picnics and hikes, to fresh groceries, unique artisan-made gifts and trinkets, outdoor gear and practical kitchenware and this eye-catching store is a veritable emporium of goodness. Their selection of local wool products is superb – nearly as good as their insatiably popular Full Monty gelato sundae, served in a handmade waffle cup. All profits from sales at Mrs Woolly’s benefit the local community trust.  Spilling into Lake Whakatipu, the glorious Dart River is a braided and glacially-fed river, with iridescent clarity, carving its way into the heart of the mountains of Mt Aspiring National Park. I joined a Dart River Safaris Wilderness Jet excursion, which is an exhilarating jet boat ride. Traversing 90km, it’s the longest jet boat ride in the region and is utterly immersive, as if you’ve been transported to an untouched world where time stands still. My jet boat rider Daniel served up a cracking commentary, prising open the rich history and natural awe of the wilderness.   Into the wilderness with Dart River Adventures. Credit Mike Yardley We took a stirring forest stroll through Paradise, readily recognisable to many Tolkien Middle Earth fans thanks to Sir Peter Jackson. Back in the water and weaving our way up strands of the braided river, I gazed in wonder at the mighty peaks of the southern reaches of the Main Divide, with peaks named after Greek gods, like Pluto, Amphion, Chaos and Poseidon. But nowhere is more scared to Ngāi Tahu in these parts than the ancient source of pounamu. Oral tradition suggests they first discovered pounamu here hundreds of years ago, at Te Koroka, a reclining giant-shaped mountain, where a seam of pounamu tumbled from the mountain side, close to Mount Earnslaw, which Māori consider as their great guardian of the pounamu resource. It’s a spell-binding romp on the water in the Dart River Valley. www.dartriver.co.nz    Road to Glenorchy. Credit QueenstownNZ If you’re up for an all-day and intrepid hike, walk in the footsteps of Bilbo Baggins and friends as they strode out of Rivendell and into the Misty Mountains. The Earnslaw Burn Track with its beautiful waterfalls stood in for this celestial slice of Middle Earth. The track starts by the Earnslaw Burn on Lovers Leap Road, 20 minutes out of Glenorchy. Follow the Burn through native bush to open tussock country at the head of the valley to soak up cascading waterfalls and Mount Earnslaw’s spectacular hanging glacier. It’s a 27km hike, out and back, with some tough climbs. It’s not for the faint-hearted.  Road to Glenorchy. Credit QueenstownNZ Five years ago, Time Magazine declared The Headwaters Eco-Lodge as one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places. he Headwaters Eco Lodge has been created from the ground up to delight and inspire our guests. Whether you’re an intrepid adventurer or relaxation-seeker, this eco-lodge, which was created from the ground up, will sweep you up in its welcome embrace. It’s a hand-crafted masterclass in sustainable design, a triumph in upcycling with many of the spaces crafted from repurposed woolsheds, surrounded in sublime natural beauty.    The Headwaters Eco-Lodge. Image supplied Designed according to the Living Building Challenge - the highest level of sustainability standards in the world, the sophisticated onsite energy and water management system and discreet deployment of solar panels have helped slash energy and water use in half, compared to similar facilities. I was blown away by the quality craftsmanship of this very woodsy lodge, from the dining room and living areas to the individual chalets that are scattered around its grounds. You’d struggle to find a better execution of regenerative design, and this net positive energy accommodation provider certainly doesn’t skimp on comforts. I stayed in the Rocky Daisy chalet and like all accommodations, it was luxuriously appointed, with premium linens, original artworks and supremely cosy country furnishings, including ensuite bathroom, and walk-in rain shower.  Dining at The Headwaters Eco_Lodge. Image supplied Dining is another sparkling revelation, where the talented team of chefs craft dazzling cuisine, steeped in freshly harvested local produce. Much of it is grown in the lodge’s bountiful kitchen garden and foraged from the surrounding countryside. The Chef’s Choice dinner experience starts at 6.30pm. (Bookings are essential if you’re not staying in-house.) The soup sung with flavour, a blend of sweetcorn, lemon grass and coconut. My main was beef eye fillet with kumara, duck fat potatoes, smoked paprika, corn ribs and broccolini. The climax was kaffir lime & coconut panna cotta with a raspberry sorbet. The lavish breakfast buffet was equally splendid.  The Headwaters Eco-Lodge was the first-ever accommodation facility designed and certified to Living Building Challenge standards, which embodies the world's most rigorous and comprehensive sustainability guidelines. Best of all, this beacon of regenerative tourism is not just environmentally and financially sustainable, but it gives back. All profits go to the local community. It’s an exemplary, ingenious hospitality base for your Glenorchy discoveries. https://theheadwatersecolodge.com  Rock Daisy chalet at The Headwaters. Credit Mike Yardley I had the pleasure of dining with Leslie Van Gelder and Corrine Davis from Glenorchy Dark Skies. Earlier this year, Tāhuna Glenorchy was officially recognised as the 23rd International Dark Sky Sanctuary. Astro-tourism is the perfect fit for this accessible wilderness destination. Could there be a better setting for gazing at the glittering constellations of the southern sky? Make a date with an astro-tour of the night sky in Glenorchy. As you’d expect from a close-knit community of just 500 residents, Leslie and Corrine lend their hand to all manner of community endeavours. Corrine was actually the founder of that irresistible Glenorchy gift store, Frank’s Corner, which brims with a cornucopia of local art, clothing and artisan homewares.   I also met up with another trail-blazing and inspirational local, Chrissy Becker-Fifield from Southern Lakes Sanctuary. The SLS team does sterling conservation work on predator control, native revegetation, promoting biodiversity and restoring native birdlife. Tracking back to Queenstown, I stopped to take a languid walk in the forest-fringed Bob’s Cove, which is all aflutter with native birds, thanks to their tireless work.  SLS successfully supported the release of Takahe into the Rees Valley in February, following a similar successful release in the Greenstone Valley, two years. They are doing God’s work. Savour a getaway to nature’s regenerative haven of Glenorchy. It’s a revelation. www.queenstownnz.co.nz  Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.  Sat, 24 May 2025 04:40:23 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-wilderness-escape-in-haast/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-wilderness-escape-in-haast/ Stitching Central Otago to the wonders of South Westland, the Haast Pass Highway is what epic roadies are all about. The Haast region is the centrepiece of Te Wāhipounamu World Heritage area. As the last mountain pass to be constructed over the Southern Alps and only fully chip-sealed in 1995, this 140km-long panoramic alpine pass still exudes a “final frontier” sense of escapism as it threads its way through South Westland’s primeval forests. The route had long been used by Māori warriors and greenstone (pounamu) gatherers, as they traversed the Main Divide.   Julius von Haast, a rather ego-centric surveyor who crossed the pass in 1863, shamelessly named the route after himself, despite being beaten to the punch by a gold prospector, Charles Cameron, who achieved the feat a few weeks earlier. For the next century, narrow bush tracks were the only means of passage across Haast Pass, until the shingled highway officially opened in 1965. I’ve just romped through the region on an autumn roadie.  From the southern end, you enter the Heidi-country deliciousness of the Makarora Valley. Be sure to head to the Blue Pools, accessed via an effortless 30 minute return walk through silver beech forest, across boardwalks and a swing-bridge to the translucent pools in the Makarora River. The bridges and boardwalk are currently being reconstructed, with bridge access closed until the end of May. These serenely still azure pools are a feeding ground for large brown and rainbow trout, which you can spot with crystal-clear precision from the bridge. The glacier-fed water is so gin-clear, the resident fish seemingly appear to be suspended in air.   Blue pools on the Haast Highway. Photo / Tourism West Coast Thirty minutes north on the Haast Pass Highway, amid the vaulting landscape of towering peaks and dense rainforest, welcome to a wonderland of waterfalls. First up, Fantail Falls. Despite a plethora of native birds whooshing and trilling overhead, this waterfall doesn’t take its name from the birdlife, but because the base of the fall splays out in a triangular fantail-shape. This would be quite the water feature, to impress your guests in the garden. Apparently, these are the most photographed of the area’s smorgasbord of falls, but it’s Thunder Creek Falls, further up the road, that struck me as the biggest pixel-burner. Hurtling down into the Haast River from a 28 metre high drop, Thunder Creek is a boastful exhibitionist, powered with the riotous rush of a fire hydrant.  The waterfall height also serves as stark lesson on just how high the glacier field was during the last ice age, 12,000 years ago.  Above the treeline at Thunder Creek, clinging implausibly to the vertiginous slopes, you’ll notice gardens of snow tussocks, dainty flowering herb fields and mountain buttercups sprouting, flourishing against the odds. For more vertical aqua magic, Roaring Billy is a 25 minute return walk, through a densely vegetated forest grove of emerald tree ferns - an absolutely enchanting walk that Weta Workshop could not improve on. But the highway’s most theatrical trump card is the ominously named Gates of Haast. This narrow highway crossing over the Haast River, hemmed in by canyon-like cliff walls and gigantic boulders of tumbling schist, is a striking sight as the surging waters thunder through the gorge like a freight train.   Thunder Creek Falls. Photo / Mike Yardley  Adding to the scenic medley, the foaming surf of the Tasman coastline shuffles closer into view, as the highway skirts undulating forests that appear to float in the tea-stained waters of the lowland swamps, strung around Haast. I headed 30 minutes up the highway to one of the West Coast’s most dramatic lookouts, Knight’s Point. Along with swollen views of the rugged coastal splendour and the wave-lashed rock stacks, the obelisk memorial at the look-out commemorates the completion of the highway, connecting Westland with Otago. If you’re wondering about the name, the chief surveyor’s dog was called Knight.  I then turned around and sauntered back towards Haast township, to step out on the glorious Ship Creek walks. There are two short and sweet strolls here. The Kahikatea Swamp Forest Walk follows the slow-flowing creek, looping through dense swamp forest where you’ll see sublime specimens of our tallest tree, the kahikatea, seemingly interlocked with each other to provide extra stability in the dense swamp.  The Dune Lake Walk is a 1km loop which leads you along the lake created by wind-blown sand and past wind-stunted forest before opening up on the sand dunes and the long sweep of the coastline all the way to Jackson Head.  Dune Lake walk at Ship Creek. Photo / DOC As the name suggests, Jackson Head guards storied Jackson Bay. Venturing to this far-flung ‘end of the road” is a signature experience in this wild and woolly pocket of New Zealand. Before reaching Jackson Bay, I first stopped at Hannahs Clearing where I joined an eager group of tourists on the Waiatoto River Safari. This family-run enterprise is passionately led by Wayne, Ruth and their delightful 9-year-old daughter Aru (she produces some beautiful handcrafted pounamu jewellery, for sale at the shop). Wayne and Ruth have a background in commercial aviation, piloting scenic flights in Wanaka and mountain flying training, including the Haast UNESCO World Heritage area. In 2007, a chance meeting led them into the world of backcountry jet boating, which is what you’ll experience with them.  The Waiatoto River Safari is backcountry jetboating at its very best, zipping you deep into the raw and remote wilderness of the Haast area. Accessing these parts would take several days on foot. The jet boat ride up the Waiatoto River is not a thrills and spills ride - the primal pull of the alpine wilderness is the starring attraction. Wayne’s stirring storytelling unpacks a myriad of riches about the natural environment. We stopped by a thriving kiwi sanctuary on the water’s edge, now home to 400 brown kiwi.    Wayne, Ruth, and Aru at Waiatoto River Safari. Photo / Supplied When it rains it pours in these parts and Wayne pointed out how the river can dramatically rise by over two metres an hour. The calling card of recent flood events is vividly illustrated along the riverbanks by uprooted trees. In the sunshine, the glacial water glistened with that trademark milky blue hue, fed by the Volta Glacier. Wayne pointed out how truck-sized boulders had been washed down by the glacier retreating at the end of the last ice age. We also noted the Alpine Fault, carving its mighty path through the landscape.   Our safari headed as far upstream as possible, laying over at the vividly-named Shark’s Tooth rapids. Fresh scones and a cup of tea are served and we enjoyed a walk along the sandy beach, marvelling over the giant boulders and layered strata, edging the river. On a brief stroll into the riverside forest, towering rimu and matai rose up to greet us, festooned in lush ferns, orchids and moss. Heading downstream, Wayne zipped us to the coast, where the glacial hues yield to brackish-brown water, closer to the sea.   Whitebaiting is an abiding passion in these parts and the water’s edge is studded with numerous whitebait stands. A gorgeous little spot is the tannin-stained Hindley Stream, trailing off from the Waiatoto River, edged by vast stands of kahikatea, as the booming surf of the ocean pierces the silence. This two-hour river safari is a remarkable and immersive encounter with the staggering diversity of the Haast region’s landscapes and precious ecosystems. It’s nature unplugged – and a must-do. riversafaris.co.nz  Feeling peckish, I drove around to the back-of-beyond fishing village of Jackson Bay, where the wharf, which is nearly 90 years old, strikingly stretches deep into the sea. The bay is the only sheltered harbour between Greymouth and Milford Sound, although it is exposed to northerly storms. History runs deep here, headlined by the ill-conceived plan for a government-supported settlement in 1875, which lured hundreds of Poles, Irish, Italians, Scandinavians, Germans and English to the area. The lack of fertile flat land, the isolation, rainfall and the sandflies all took their toll, and most settlers had decamped within three years.   Jackson Bay Wharf. Photo / Mike Yardley  Today, fishing endures as Jackson Bay’s mainstay, with crayfish, blue cod and tuna being the prized catches. After enjoying some bush walks, I tucked into some delicious fare at The Craypot. This cute-as-a-button eatery began life as a pie cart in Timaru, before being moved to Cromwell in the 1980s. A Haast local purchased it in 2001, towed it over Haast Pass behind a tractor, and set up shop on the Jackson Bay esplanade. This quirky caravan style café cooks up a West Coast seafood storm, whether you’re up for a seafood chowder, seafood basket, whitebait, crayfish – or best of all, blue cod. It’s pricey, but destination dining in excelsis.   Where to stay? Nestled near Haast Visitor Centre, Haast River Motels & Holiday Park is a fabulous base to launch your day’s wild adventures from. This all-embracing complex with charmingly helpful staff caters to all travellers, from powered and unpowered sites for motorhomes, caravans and tents; to stylish motel accommodation, including studios and apartments that can sleep up to five people. There’s also a bunk room that can sleep seven. My deluxe family studio was a haven of comfort, with an ensuite, kitchenette, dining suite & sofa.   Haast River Motels & Holiday Park. Photo / Supplied It was well equipped with complimentary coffee, tea, milk and sugar; cooking utensils; crockery; cutlery; hot plates; microwave; fridge; toaster & jug. The complex also includes free WiFi, TV lounge, games room, laundry and playground. There’s a shower block and kitchen for the campers, too. No matter your budget and choice of accommodation, Haast River Motels & Holiday Park is a trusty provider of hearty West Coast hospitality. haastrivermotels.co.nz   Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.  Sat, 17 May 2025 00:27:33 Z /lifestyle/travel/how-travel-is-innovating-from-passport-free-to-eco-friendly-planes-trip-notes/ /lifestyle/travel/how-travel-is-innovating-from-passport-free-to-eco-friendly-planes-trip-notes/ For decades, passports have been our main form of identification when travelling between countries. But within only a few years, physical passports could become a thing of the past, moving onto our phones alongside our boarding passes. It’s one proposal by the International Civil Aviation Organisation, the United Nations body that oversees airline policy, in recent weeks as a way of revolutionising the travel process for the digital age. Instead of checking in for a flight, travellers would receive a “journey pass” on their phones that automatically updates when details change, and people would be able to use their faces to pass through security gates - with airlines being alerted when people arrive at the airport for a flight. Speaking to Lorna Riley on the NZ Herald‘s travel podcast Trip Notes, Air New Zealand’s chief transformation and alliances officer Mike Williams said a lot of those proposed changes are already here. “Different airports around the world have moved at different speeds on this, but already many ports that we fly to, there’s facial recognition for boarding. “It’s a much nicer customer experience. It’s faster. I think it’s easier as well, you know, especially if you’ve got kids who you’re travelling with or elderly parents or things like this. You don’t need to make sure that you’ve got every passport and every boarding pass open at the photo page and things.” It’s not just the airport experience where technology is evolving. Williams said artificial intelligence is set to be a major disruptor in the travel industry, particularly when it comes to planning holidays. “I went to Mangawhai recently, just north of Auckland and said, ‘look, I’m gonna be there for three days, I’m going with the kids and my wife, and we are kind of keen on doing some hiking or some slightly adventurous thing. What could we do?’ “And it gave a three-day itinerary. Basically morning, afternoon, evening, do this. I did it basically, exactly as it was said, and it was perfect. " Every time we travel, especially overseas, there’s the amount of time that we spend planning, and then there’s the amount of time that we spend experiencing and enjoying, and I think we’ll decrease the amount of time that we need to put into the logistics." Don’t forget you can save a digital copy of your policy documents on your phone for easy access whenever you may need them. Innovation is also evident with the planes themselves. Eco-friendly designs have been pitched over the years to reduce the impact on the environment, including new fuselage shapes and different types of fuel like hydrogen. Williams said Air New Zealand has been advocating strongly in that area, but it takes decades of development to get these changes right. What will happen sooner, though, is changes to the interior. Williams said Air New Zealand’s SkyNests are due to be installed next year. In terms of other designs - such as double-decker seats - Williams said he likes the fact people are testing and experimenting different ideas. However... " I don’t think that’s something that Air New Zealand will be pushing." Listen to the full episode for more on changes in the air travel industry, and how Air New Zealand is adapting. Trip Notes is an NZ Herald podcast hosted by Lorna Riley, a keen travel writer and enthusiast and host of Coast Days. New episodes are available every Tuesday. You can follow the podcast at iHeartRadio, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts. Tue, 13 May 2025 01:24:45 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-epic-splendour-of-glacier-country/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-epic-splendour-of-glacier-country/ South Westland’s awe-inspiring natural splendour seems to grow in stature the further south you go. There’s a fairytale quality to the sense of escapism, as you drive through those long and leafy highway glades, where the forest canopy drapes across the road. Before savouring Glacier Country, have a dabble in the irresistibly laidback hamlet of Ōkārito. It’s like a world unto itself. On arrival, you’re rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the towering jaws of the Southern Alps, the roar of the ocean, the magnificent lagoon, striking sea cliffs and vast, lush forest in this heart-stealing eco-wonderland.   Strolling the village and discovering its spoil of historic nuggets is a delight, including the restored wharf, glowing in the golden rays of daybreak. But the piece de resistance is unquestionably Ōkārito Lagoon, New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland. This sprawling estuarial lagoon teems with birdlife and is best experienced on a kayak tour with Gemma, Baz and the team from Ōkārito Kayaks. This locally-owned business has been renting kayaks and guiding travellers on Ōkārito Lagoon for over thirty years.  Kayaking on Ōkārito Lagoon. Photo / Supplied In the morning calm, you’ll see so many of the 70 bird species feeding in the lagoon - from royal spoonbills, godwits, terns and oystercatchers to pied stilts, Caspian terns, paradise ducks…and best of all, the great white heron. The lagoon is their main feeding ground for the kotuku. It's also the permanent home for some of the population, after they’ve left the nest, so you’ll see them year-round on Ōkārito Lagoon.  A great base for all your wild adventures is Franz Josef township, which is also home to the West Coast Wildlife Centre. They operate the official breeding programme for the world's rarest kiwi, the Rowi. It’s well worth a visit to check out their stirring work. Previously considered a variety of Brown Kiwi, the Rowi was recognised as a distinct species just over 20 years ago. Since first opening in 2010, the West Coast Wildlife Centre has safely hatched hundreds and hundreds of kiwi chicks. Six years ago, several dozen Kiwi were released into a new DOC sanctuary in the Omoeroa ranges near Lake Matheson, just out of Fox Glacier. I adore the magnificent mirror of Matheson, reputed to be New Zealand’s most photographed lake. Get up early for a dawn jaunt or end your day with a lakeside stroll at dusk, and you might even hear the kiwi calls reverberate across its reflective waters.   Nestled in ancient rimu and kahikatea forest and revered for its mirror views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman, its exceptional reflecting properties are due to the dark brown tannins leaching into the water leached from the forest floor. Keep your fingers crossed for calm, clear weather that are the essential ingredients for the mirror magic. It’s a 40 minute return walk from the car park to the Jetty Viewpoint. For a longer leg-stretcher, plump for the 90 minute Lake Circuit route which leads you to the View of Views at the top end of the lake, plus Reflection Island. The painterly spectacle of a pristine mountain reflection, shrouded in native foliage, is what mesmerising travel moments are all about.  Glacier Country glory at Lake Matheson. Photo / Supplied Providing some stiff competition to Lake Matheson, the Lake Gault walkway is an alluring alternative, or added extra! It takes you higher up on an extended 3-5 hour 8km return hike, threading through ancient podocarp forest to reach Lake Gault. Pray to the weather gods and you’ll be rewarded with sizzling views of Aoraki/Mt Cook, Mt Tasman and the Southern Alps, mirrored in the lake waters. The track starts and finishes right next to the Lake Matheson Café and Reflectionz Gallery.  The twin glaciers, Franz Josef and Fox are revered as being two of the most accessible glaciers in the world, plunging down from the Southern Alps, wrapped in rainforest, almost to sea level. Descending from 3000 metres, Franz Josef Glacier terminates just 240 metres above sea level, and just 19km from the coast. The terminal face of Fox, which is the longest of the West Coast glaciers, is only 12km from the Tasman Sea. It’s what makes Franz Josef and Fox so exceptional – you’d struggle to find many glaciers so close to the ocean.  There are a multitude of ways to commune with these wondrous ribbons of ice. From the valley floor, the walking tracks to the terminal face viewpoints will take you about 30 minutes to complete at Franz Josef and 90 minutes at Fox.   But to get intimate, up-close or even to set foot on these glaciers, whether you’re heli-hiking, heli-ice climbing, or hankering for a scenic flight, there’s plenty of tour operators touting specials in the main street of both townships. If you’re up for on-the-ground adventure, I’d definitely recommend an ice climb on Franz Josef Glacier. Its steeper gradient gives rise to more crevasses and ice caves, increasing your odds of savouring the universal allure of blue ice. One of nature’s great illusions, blue ice occurs when snow falls on a glacier, is compressed and enlarges the ice crystals, creating the blue hue.   Climbing Fox Glacier. Photo / Supplied Speaking of walks, another great jaunt in Franz Josef is the 1 hour 20 min return walk to Callery Gorge, where you’ll be following in the footsteps of goldminers on this historic route, which unfurls as a rainforest and electric blue glacial water symphony. If you have little ones in tow, a splendid little walk leads you to Peter’s Pool. Starting from the car park on Glacier Access Road, this fully accessible walk winds through the rainforest to a small kettle lake, which was formed by ice melting amongst glacial moraine about 200 years ago. Fingers crossed you’ll get some mirror magic, with the reflective views of Franz Josef Glacier and snow-clad peaks in this tranquil setting.   If you’re kids are eager for a longer leg-stretcher, Glacier Access Road is also the starting point for the Lake Wombat Walk (they’ll love the name). The lake is named after Jack Irwin, alias Wombat Jack, who sluiced for gold in the area in the 1800s. This 90 minute return walk is a lush fern-lined hike which climbs steadily from the car park through rimu forest to a peaceful kettle lake. Like Peter’s Pool, Lake Wombat was also formed by the melting of a huge piece of ice left amidst glacial debris about 9000 years ago. westcoast.co.nz/   Where to stay? Te Waonui Forest Retreat is one of my all-time favourite eco-luxury accommodation experiences in New Zealand. Thickly enrobed by rainforest, this five star boutique retreat in Franz Josef is a haven from the hubbub of the tourist town. The focus has steadfastly stayed true to its roots - to create a healthy, environmentally safe habitat to maximise guests' wellbeing. With a natural, earthy ambience and highly attentive service, this is a sublime retreat in Franz Josef.  Every aspect of the 5 star Qualmark rated Te Waonui Forest Retreat has been crafted to impress.   Te Waonui Forest Retreat. Photo / Scenic Hotel Group From deluxe soundproofing technology between rooms to the five-course degustation menu featuring local and seasonal cuisine, every imaginable detail has been impeccably thought out. While I was staying at Te Waonui, a huge group of perky 65+ cyclists checked into the retreat, from all over the world, after rocking the West Coast’s wonderful trails. Their sense of anticipation for some blissed-out indulgence was palpable! Ingeniously built around a thick tract of rainforest, this restorative retreat continues to raise the bar on luxurious wilderness hospitality, wrapped in elemental wonder. Spoil yourself with a signature stay at this tranquil establishment. Breakfast and dinner upgrade packages are also available in the Frond Bar & Restaurant, which is headlined by their acclaimed degustation dinner. scenichotelgroup.co.nz/franz-josef/te-waonui-forest-retreat   Mike Yardley is 九一星空无限talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.   Mon, 12 May 2025 23:15:35 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-mandarin-oriental-hyde-park-london/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-mandarin-oriental-hyde-park-london/ Perfectly poised in Knightsbridge, across from Harvey Nicols and Harrods, the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London proudly projects a sense of place. This turreted, red-brick Edwardian confection, all aflutter in Union Jacks, is a lustrous landmark in its own right. The legendary hotel brand is renowned for its distinct Asian minimalist aesthetic. But a destination should always trump décor, which is why the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park has ensured its British heritage and storied tradition is the signature attraction. It’s recent multi-million dollar refresh fully respected the bones and history of the property, hitting all the right notes for lovers of a signature London experience. Jovial doormen in classic red coats and black hats set the tone. Grand double front doors open into a red-carpeted staircase, graced at the top with an open fire and reception. Welcome to high-end but homely hospitality! Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park exterior. Credit MOHG The roll call of its famous past and present guests is voluminous. There’s a dedicated royal entrance originally built for Queen Victoria; Winston Churchill used to check in regularly; and Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret took dance lessons here. In a city liberally endowed with prestigious luxury hotels, this grand dame of Knightsbridge says is still one of the capital’s most coveted and decorated destinations. Check out the hotel’s fascinating history in the ‘If Walls Could Talk’ gallery, located to the left of the hotel entrance. This building is dressed in history and it shows - although it’s anything but faded or dated. Just about every space throughout this property feels fresh and modern, artfully touched up, while maintaining a clear sensitivity to the past. Copious amounts of highly-polished and richly-coloured marble anchor the sense of grandeur in so many of the hotel’s public spaces. There’s the subtle, inventive touches too, like the horse-hair light shades. Internationally acclaimed designer Joyce Wang oversaw the hotel refresh and for the accommodations, she drew inspiration from the boundless beauty of Hyde Park and the 20th century Golden Age of travel, in her design palette. Hyde Park suite bedroom. Credit Mike Yardley Accommodations are as grand and opulent as they were pre-renovation, but they feel lighter and more playful. The heavily patterned fabrics have been swapped out for wooden floors, soft, earthy tones, and Art Deco flourishes. Bathrooms are slathered with white marble, and who could say no to the personal pampering of a heated toilet seat? Push the boat right out and book a Hyde Park Suite for a truly wondrous stay, which comes complete with a butler at your beck and call. With two spacious rooms (master bedroom and salon) and a separate marble bathroom, it’s high-life hotel living. Interiors are opulent but not in a flashy way. My incredibly expansive salon featured luxurious silk wall coverings, hand-gilded mirror artwork, a leather-topped writing desk and an illuminated 'acorns' chandelier. Tall glass cabinets house decorative ornaments and books or practical implements like the state-of-the-art Nespresso coffee machine. A complimentary mini-bar, welcome champagne & fruit, and complimentary round-trip transfers are all part of suite life. Gazing out my panoramic windows, as Royal Household horses clopped-clopped along storied Rotten Row, the leafy surrounds of Hyde Park unmistakeably lends the hotel a soothingly bucolic texture. As you’d expect from such a decorated hotel, service is graciously charming and outgoing, personable, attentive but never pretentious or obtrusive. Be royally treated at this hospitality treasure. Hyde Park suite. Credit Mike Yardley Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is a 2 Michelin star restaurant that has become a mainstay for bon vivants at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. Although the celebrated chef Blumenthal is synonymous with molecular gastronomy and cutting-edge cooking techniques, for Dinner he has curated and updated a trove of historic British recipes that travel through the mists of time as far back as the 14th century. A three-course dinner has a set price of £125, but this is destination dining in excelsis, overlooking the dappled light of Hyde Park and historic Rotten Row. Service is super-obliging, charismatic with a few touches of pure theatre. For my starter I chose Meat Fruit, which originates from the 1500s. This chicken liver parfait is presented in the shape of a mandarin, covered by a mandarin orange jelly, served with a slice of toasted sourdough.  I love a chicken parfait and Heston’s mandarin-themed version knocked it out of the park. Silky smooth, it has an elegant, earthy sweetness that contrasts effortlessly with the fruity "skin.” This dish has been a perennial crowd-pleaser since the restaurant opened 14 years ago. Meat Fruit at Dinner by Heston. Credit MOHG My Main actually reached back to the Roman Empire and the “Edible History of Pompeii” in 79AD. I chose the Duck & Turnip dish which was sensational. Cooked to perfection, the meat was medium rare with a perfect balance of sweet and salty seasoning, the buttery soft turnip puree offered another layer of smooth earthiness texture, with a sprinkling of black truffle. Be sure to order a side of Blumenthal's famed triple-cooked chips. Plunge into their super crisp, shattery exteriors, where the insides are soft and pillowy. For dessert, Dinner's smash-hit is the Tipsy Cake, served with a slice of spit-roast pineapple. Sourced from the 1858 English Cookery Book, this Victorian-era cake is brioche-like, arriving utterly rich, buttery, bittersweet, and delicious, with a beautifully crystallised top. However, even better was the succulent and juicy pineapple, which exuded a wonderfully rich, deep, caramelised sugariness. It’s the best single piece of pineapple I've ever devoured. Tipsy Cake at Dinner by Heston. Credit Mike Yardley One final act of tableside-theatre loomed, when my waitress pulled up with Dinner's off-menu Nitrogen Ice Cream Trolley. Constructed of Corian, the cart features a hand-cranked mixer that fuses liquid nitrogen and vanilla custard, in a dramatic cloud of mist, to a create a seductively smooth, but substantial ice cream, served in a sugary, shattery cone. Three toppings were available: strawberry crumble, raspberry meringue, and walnut praline. I plumped for a strawberry/walnut combo, which made the ice cream sing with its fruity and nutty notes. This climactic coned presentation honours the history of English frozen dessert pioneer Agnes Marshall, who advocated the use of liquid nitrogen in the cooking process in 1901. For historical British cuisine reimagined – Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is a class-act that will linger fondly in your memories.www.mandarinoriental.com Icecream-making theatre at Dinner by Heston. Credit Mike Yardley I flew to London with Cathay Pacific, who are extending their wings across Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August. This will increase Cathay Pacific’s reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. If you prefer to turn left when boarding, Cathay’s London services are operated by Boeing 777s which include the all-new Aria Suites in the Business cabin, complete with sliding doors. Services between Hong Kong and Auckland are operated by advanced A350-900s. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. www.cathaypacific.com Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on 九一星空无限talk ZB. Sun, 11 May 2025 04:31:42 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-eat-stay-and-play-at-the-dorchester/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-eat-stay-and-play-at-the-dorchester/ From real-deal monarchy to Hollywood royalty, The Dorchester London has remained a beloved haunt for the world’s A-listers for nearly a century. But whether you’re an A, B, C or Z-lister, this oh-so peachy Park Lane palace will unfailingly treat you like royalty. Amid the galaxy of stars who have bedded down here from Elizabeth Taylor and David Bowie to Tom Cruise and Brigitte Bardot, this iconic hotel is a byword for true luxury, so why not treat yourself to a vintage glitterati getaway? And the history that suffuses this glorious hotel is equally enchanting.   The Dorchester has enjoyed an enduring relationship with the House of Windsor, since its doors first opened in 1931. Lording over Hyde Park, the Queen and her cortege dressed for her wedding at the hotel, in 1947, while Prince Charles famously threw his bachelor party here. Time-honoured opulence pours from every nook and cranny, with eye-catching and gold-standard décor at every turn. I cheerily drunk in all the artistry, from the hotel’s majestic carpets (each floor sports a distinctive colour), to the divine Art Deco clocks by the lifts.   Within seconds of entering the gleaming, majestic lobby, sparkling staff whisk me up to my luxurious quarters to complete the check-in formalities, swaddled in supreme comfort. Accentuating the wow-factor, my butler Miguel swiftly arrives to warmly greet me. I’ve been upgraded to a Hyde Park Suite, one of the most illustrious of the property’s 241 rooms. Popping with 1930s glamour, I swoon over the lobby’s marble chequered flooring, and royal blue velvet wallpaper. Yes, my three-room suite has a lobby! My enormous bathroom, clad in creamy marble, has a bathtub that could house a small family.   The living room in the Hyde Park suite. Photo / DorchesterCollection Dainty floral motifs dance from the curtains, while sumptuously inviting blue sofas frame the living room. The suite embodies English country charm at its beguiling best, with space to dine, entertain and unwind. The attention to detail is faultless. The extensive light switch panels are thoughtfully with images of what each individual light switch controls. There’s all the contemporary creature comforts too without going gadget-crazy, like enormous Bang & Olufsen TVs.  As I slung open the French doors to soak up the Hyde Park vista in the sparkling spring sunshine, my perky butler Miguel returns with a fresh pot of tea and plate of exquisite biscuits. It’s those heart-warming, homely touches in such a glamourous hotel, that add to the sweet seduction. Highly personable, Miguel has been a fixture of The Dorchester for decades. He’s at my service to attend to any whims and needs, from concierge bookings and unpacking to ironing or even hanging up clothes. I assure him that I’m actually very low maintenance. As my tea steeps, he regales me with all manner of tales and I discover that he had some remarkable encounters as butler to Elizabeth Taylor in her dying days.   Miguel the Butler serving tea in the suite. Photo / Mike Yardley  Travelling with her entourage to the Dorchester, Miguel remarked that Taylor adored Christmas and desperately wanted to enjoy one last Christmas with her loyal staff. It was May, but she asked Miguel if it would be possible to arrange Christmas dinner with all the trimmings. Nothing of course is out of question for The Dorchester, so a full Christmas dinner with all the festive fare was promptly cooked to order, complete with her suite being dressed with Christmas trees.   If you can tear yourself away from the cosseted finery of your accommodations, the hotel’s line-up of destination dining venues are swollen with temptations. Beyond the lobby, The Promenade is one the hotel world’s most envied spaces, a gilded and carpeted catwalk of pleasures, an avenue of resplendent indulgence, dressed with buxom banquettes, marble flooring, striking black-and-gold pillars and alluring artworks. I marvelled over Ann Carrington's Queen Elizabeth II portrait, created from over 1,000 mother-of-pearl buttons. It’s the central living room of The Dorchester, enlivened with coral-coloured silk draperies and gold-framed mirrors.   Breathe in the glamour and the grandeur in this people-watching paradise while partaking in one of the multiple daily sittings of Afternoon Tea, if you’re not staying in-house. It’s also a supreme spot for a stylish breakfast, serving up the best pain au chocolat I've ever had, bursting with the most intensely delicious chocolate. Ditto for the eggs benedict with HG Walter traditional ham and hollandaise. One of the most popular breakfast dishes is Tom’s Truffle Eggs & Soldiers. For sweet-tooths, don’t go past Tom’s brioche French toast with pecans, orange dulce de leche and crème fraiche.  The Promenade. Photo / DorchesterCollection Trailing off The Promenade are entrances to The Grill, Vesper Bar, the three-Michelin-star Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester and restaurant China Tang. Whether you’re staying in-house or not, a London must-do is to partake in Sunday roast lunch at The Grill by Tom Booton. The restaurant is all bronzes and browns, with parquet flooring and a stunningly spidery chandelier. The Grill by Tom Booton is a celebration of bold British cuisine, classic dishes with a tasty and modern twist, from this red-hot Essex chef who is shaking Britain’s old standards. For a starter, I plumped for a cheese & onion doughnut with grape chutney. Unbelievably good! Miguel had warned me to pack a big appetite – and he wasn’t wrong, because the surfeit of sides that accompanies your main is astronomical.   My roasted Hereford beef was accompanied with braised shin stuffed Yorkshire pudding, horseradish cream, and an assortment of bowls bursting with glazed carrots, cauliflower cheese, seasonal greens and duck fat potatoes. It was undoubtedly the best roast I have ever savoured in my life, with a kaleidoscope of flavours. But I still dream longingly about the cauliflower cheese, which was so soft and gooey and addictively irresistible. Apparently, the secret is to slightly roast the cauli and the cheese should be gruyere and cheddar. The ultimate comfort food. Fully in the grips of a five-star food coma, it would have been unspeakably churlish to decline dessert, so I blithely surrendered to that oh-so-British love affair with rhubarb. A slice of rhubarb pie was paired with rhubarb and custard soft serve ice cream, topped with tarragon, which enriched the dessert with a subtle anise-flavour. Another sinfully delicious, masterly executed dish to cap off a spectacular dining experience.  Sunday roast at the Grill by Tom Booton. Photo / Mike Yardley  Despite being such a seriously posh property, The Dorchester is anything but stiff.  I thoroughly enjoyed interacting with the staff, who are pleasingly disarming and personable – no matter who you are. Unfailingly welcoming, engaging and attentive – this hotel embodies the highest service values.  From royals, rock stars and passing glitterati to travellers seeking a taste of the holiday high-life, 53 Park Lane is quite simply one of the finest hotel addresses in the world offering unforgettable encounters. dorchestercollection.com/en/london/the-dorchester/   I flew to London with Cathay Pacific, who are extending their wings across Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August. This will increase Cathay Pacific’s reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. If you prefer to turn left when boarding, Cathay’s London services are operated by Boeing 777s which include the all-new Aria Suites in the Business cabin, complete with sliding doors. Services between Hong Kong and Auckland are operated by advanced A350-900s. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. cathaypacific.com  Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on 九一星空无限talk ZB.  Sat, 10 May 2025 01:24:11 Z /lifestyle/travel/air-new-zealand-suspends-christchurch-gold-coast-flights-over-summer-amid-operational-constraints/ /lifestyle/travel/air-new-zealand-suspends-christchurch-gold-coast-flights-over-summer-amid-operational-constraints/ Air New Zealand will suspend its Christchurch to Gold Coast service from November 2025 to March 2026. It says the decision is due to demand, market conditions and fleet constraints. Affected customers will be rebooked via Auckland as engine issues continue to impact the airline’s operations. Air New Zealand has revealed it will suspend its Christchurch to Gold Coast service over the upcoming summer period, citing a number of factors impacting its operational capacity. Travel agents were informed yesterday that the transtasman route would be suspended for a period of five months, from November 2025 to March 2026. Air New Zealand chief commercial officer Jeremy O’Brien told the Herald the airline had “made the difficult decision to introduce a seasonal suspension on its Christchurch to Gold Coast services”. O’Brien said the decision was influenced by “ongoing demand and market conditions, along with our wider fleet constraints”. “We need to make careful decisions about where we operate over the period. We remain committed to providing reliable services across our network,” O’Brien said. “This suspension will only affect a small number of customers with bookings, who will be rebooked via Auckland.” Air New Zealand was suspending the service due to “ongoing demand and market conditions, along with our wider fleet constraints”, chief commercial officer Jeremy O’Brien said. The airline will continue to operate the Christchurch to Gold Coast service three times a week until October. “We thank customers for their understanding while we work through this change,” O’Brien said. Although the service’s suspension is a new development, New Zealand’s national carrier has already warned travellers that its flight schedule would continue to be affected by engine issues with its Airbus A320neos and Boeing 787 Dreamliners. In 2023, Pratt & Whitney said it would need to inspect the quality of 700 engines from Airbus A320neos worldwide after it discovered a “rare condition” in the powdered metal used to make its turbo-fan engines. Meanwhile, several of the airline’s 787 Dreamliners are having their Rolls-Royce Trent 100 engines inspected for premature wear and weakness but face maintenance delays. Inspections and potential replacements can take up to 300 days per engine, creating significant operational complexities. The Auckland to Gold Coast service is the latest to be suspended by Air New Zealand. Photo / Tourism Queensland Air New Zealand‘s Christchurch to Gold Coast connection is the third international service to have been suspended after its engine troubles. The airline announced in February that it would end its seasonal Auckland to Seoul (Incheon) service. At the time, O’Brien said it was due to “ongoing challenges with engine availability”. The Seoul connection usually operates for six months from October to March. March 29 marked the final flight for this seasonal route to and from South Korea’s capital. The airline paused its non-stop flights between Auckland and Chicago last year, again citing engine issues. It expects to resume flights to the North American city by the end of 2025. Tom Rose is an Auckland-based journalist who covers breaking news, specialising in lifestyle, entertainment and travel. He joined the Herald in 2023. Thu, 08 May 2025 04:04:23 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-history-dripping-budapest-with-trafalgar/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-history-dripping-budapest-with-trafalgar/ Budapest has long been a punching bag for invading powers and battled over by a litany of imperial bullies. But the legacy is a city stacked with historic layer upon layer of intrigue and faded glory, some layers still decaying while others have been ambitiously restored.  I was back in the Hungarian capital with Trafalgar, one of the headline stops on their splendidly curated 10-day Imperial Europe tour.  Necklaced with nine bridges, the mighty Danube bisects the distinct settlements of Buda and Pest, that were only officially united as one city in 1873. Nestled amid the verdant hills and tumbling greenery of Buda, the Castle District is the city’s top draw, which was vividly brought to life by our local specialist guide Andrea’s engaging storytelling. Much of it was obliterated in the second world war.  Chain Bridge and the Danube at twilight. Photo / Supplied This UNESCO-protected treasure chest of historic properties contains churches, mansions, statues, museums, galleries and of course the Royal Palace complex.  In previous times, many of the floridly sculpted fountains gushed with wine. Imagine! The Hapsburg Empress Maria Theresa added a 200-rooms to the complex in the late 18th century, which was heavily bombed in World War II, and has been freshly restored. The Royal Palace’s Riding Hall has been rebuilt, as has the ornate interior of St Stephen’s Hall. The Archduke’s palace is currently closed for refurbishment, with the buildings being reconstructed using surviving architects’ drawings.  Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orban is overseeing the estimated NZ$3 billion dollar revitalisation of the Castle District, which seeks to replicate the pomp and prestige of the area, when it was at the peak of its imperial powers, under the Hapsburg monarchy. Andrea described it as Orban’s “edifice complex.” This mega-vanity-project is one of Europe’s largest projects of historical reconstruction, with brand new baroque buildings rising up where, for generations, there was nothing. Rococo details and white plasterwork are being liberally slathered on top of reinforced concrete like cake icing. Some of new buildings are so shiny, their freshly folded zinc roofs glint in the sun.  Buda Castle at night. Photo / Supplied Buda Castle was destroyed in the war, and it took 30 years to return it to the state you see it in today, but the reconstruction works continue for another four years. Nearby is the Castle Labyrinth which is a 10km-long network of caves, which was used as a very hardy air-raid shelter during the war. Orban, who is Europe’s longest-serving Prime Minister, has moved his own offices into a former Carmelite monastery in Castle Hill, and other ministries are being transferred. As Andrea remarked, “what Orban says, goes.” He cleared Budapest of beggars.  My favourite stop was Matthias Church (also known as Virgin Mary Church), a ginger-bread stone structure dripping in history. First built in the 13th century, and covered in 150,000 porcelain tiles, it was converted into the Great Mosque by the Ottomans three hundred years later, before reverting to Christianity under the Hapsburgs.   A decade-long restoration of the church was triumphantly completed ten years ago, so it’s looking radiant. What makes this church so striking is the carpet-like design that graces the columns and walls of the church, in memory of its era as a mosque. Directly outside, Fishermen’s Bastion was constructed during the Golden Age of the late 1800’s, when the Hapsburgs agreed to greater autonomy for the city, and a largely decorative building boom ensued. Fishermen’s Bastion features seven turrets, one representing each of the original Hungarian tribes, and the far-reaching views across the river to Pest are celestial.    Across the Danube from Fisherman's Bastion. Photo / Supplied Other stellar Golden Age specimens include the most adored structure spanning the Danube is the Chain Bridge: guarded by finely carved stone lions and spectacularly spangled at night. In fact, Budapest spends a fortune lustily illuminated all Danube bridges and the myriad of architectural landmarks edging the river. It’s a wondrous experience to soak up the twinkling panorama at night, as we did on our Trafalgar tour.  A prestigious competition was held to determine the design of the Hungarian Parliament, in the late 19th century. Inspired by Britain’s Houses of Parliament, the ornately gothic designed building opened in 1903, replete with turrets and domes – and Hungary’s Crown Jewels. One of the most iconic cultural shrines is the Opera House. Built in 1884, the Budapest Opera House has 7kg of gold delivering quite the bling-factor to its interior. The State Opera House crowns the heart of Andrassy Ave, a 2.5 km-long Parisian-style boulevard, and still the glamour strip for socialites, shopping, wining, dining and entertainment. Budapest’s broad, straight boulevards were inspired by the French urban planner, Baron Haussmann’s makeover of Paris. Our gorgeous hotel, Courtyard Budapest City Center, edged by bustling Rákóczi Avenue is another such specimen.  Hungarian Parliament and the Danube. Photo / Supplied The past century has certainly been a turbulent and torturous period for Hungary; first as a Nazi puppet, and subsequently a Communist state, with the Soviet Union pulling its strings. Thirty five years ago, Hungary was at the forefront of world history again, the first domino to tip over, triggering the collapse of the Iron Curtain.  You can still place your finger in the bullet holes of many buildings. A sobering experience is to take in the House of Terror, which was the Nazi headquarters, its basement used for torture and murder. Post-war, the communists took over the building as the base for its fearsome secret police.   Just down from the Hungarian Parliament, on the banks of the Danube, I found myself utterly absorbed by one of the most potent and poignant war memorials I’ve ever encountered. Twenty years old, the Shoe Memorial’s simplicity is profoundly moving. Sixty pairs of bronze shoes, of all shapes and sizes, are scattered along the very edge of the river, to represent the thousands of Hungarian Jews who were forced to remove their shoes before being brutally shot in that place, towards the end of WWII. Their bodies would fall into the cold water and be washed away from the city on the current. The shoes sit at the edge of the water, scattered and abandoned, as though their owners had just stepped out of them and left them there.  Shoe Monument on the blue Danube. Photo / Mike Yardley  Roman emperor Nero was reputedly the first to bathe in the city’s natural hot springs, but the proliferation of Turkish baths was bestowed on the city by the Ottomans, before they were unceremoniously sent packing by the Hapsburgs. (Budapest’s enduring passion for coffee and paprika can also be attributed to the Ottomans.)  My favourite spot for a therapeutic soak is at Gellert Baths. The Art Nouveau designed Gellert Hotel was built during the Golden Age of the late 19th century, housing a palatial complex of highly ornate thermal baths and swimming pools.   Nearby, Gellert Hill pays homage to the city’s patron saint, St. Gellert. In the 9th century, the Venetian missionary was invited to Buda, to help convert the city to Catholicism. A pagan revolt led to Bishop Gellert being placed in a spiky barrel and rolled off the hillside into the Danube. His violent death led to him being canonised, and the eponymously named hill now bears a glittering statue in his honour, which is also a great panoramic perch.  If you want to sample some authentic Budapest tastes, here’s a few tempters. The grand old Central Market, a vast and cavernous emporium built in 1896, teems with merchants and the food stalls sell peasant dishes like goulash soup and langos (fried flatbread with toppings). Grab a high stool and you can enjoy a spicy sausage and a beer for less than NZ$5. The magnificently colourful riot of paprika, sausage and fruit stalls are a photogenic headrush. Budapest loves its cakes and pastries. A cherished institution is the Gerbeaud Pastry Shop on Vorosmarty Square, founded in 1857, and sure to charm you with its elegant old-world ambience and mouth-drooling sweet temptations.   Budapest Central Market. Photo / Supplied Just down from our hotel on Erzsebet Ave, New York Café is a tractor-beam. Since the turn of the 20th century, it’s been billed as the most beautiful and the most beloved coffee house in Budapest. A wildly popular haunt among artists, poets and writers, the most influential newspapers were previously edited upstairs in the café’s gallery. Its eclectic Italian Renaissance-style architecture, with marbled columns, gilded artworks, crystal chandeliers and ceiling frescoes, all dressed in opulent furnishings is guaranteed Instagram-bait. The coffee is pretty average, but the sheer splendour of the interior is irresistible.  Our Trafalgar tour included a Be My Guest experience which aims to offer up an authentic slice-of-life dining occasion. The venue was Schieszl winery, on the outskirts of the city. Established in 1896, our host was Konrad Schieszl who explained that he is the fifth generation to run the winery and restaurant.  His family originally came to Budapest from Germany 300 years ago and his great-grandfather started growing grapes on the site of the winery. I particularly enjoyed their merlot and cabernet sauvignon, while the on-site restaurant served up an array of delightful dishes. The speciality is Mangalica pig, a cholesterol-free pork from a heritage breed of Hungarian pigs, that has become the toast of many gourmet restaurants. Streaks of fatty “marble” infiltrates their muscles, producing a spider web pattern of white lines that resembles Wagyu meat. Even the colour of Mangalica meat is beef-like, noticeably darker than regular pork varieties. These unusual, curly-haired pigs look more like oversized sheep.  Mangalica Pork at Schieszl. Photo / Mike Yardley Konrad’s father conceived the winery’s secret recipes for curing and smoking this famous pork.  As we were feasting on this guilt-free pork, Konrad captivated us with the tale about his grandfather’s best friend, who was Jewish.  During World War II when Jews were being slaughtered, he decided he must save his dear friend. Along with his wife and child, they were concealed inside of one of his giant wine barrels, whenever the SS came calling. They all survived.   When the war ended and the Soviets moved in, anyone with German ties was expelled from Hungary. The Schieszl family were given 24 hours to get out, stripped of all their property and most of their belongings. 12 years later, the Jewish friend’s son, who had become a lawyer with political connections to the Prime Minister, was able to make arrangements for Konrad’s grandfather, to buy back his property and return to Hungary. And the family business has never looked back. What a remarkable story.  Back in town, kert, or "ruin" bars, are a Budapest signature, continuing to make great use of derelict buildings, awaiting restoration. Such a specimen is Taqueria which was formerly the provisioning depot for Hungarian Railways. Now a spacious garden bar, try a "pinky" (grapefruit vodka shot) or plum palinka (fruit brandy) that packs a punch at 40% alcohol, and toast Budapest’s searing history.  Ruin bars in Budapest. Photo / Supplied Tour Differently. Travelling with Trafalgar means you won’t just see the world – but you’ll experience it with authenticity to the fore. Tour adventurously, from the must-sees to hidden secrets, and tour locally with those priceless encounters with the locals like Konrad Schieszl. Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour has a starting price of $4,422 per person, twin share and includes a savings of up to $600 per person. Valid on select travel dates June, July and August 2025. Subject to availability. Call 0800 484 333, visit trafalgar.com or see your local Travel Agent.  Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard on 九一星空无限talk ZB at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.  Sat, 03 May 2025 00:30:38 Z /lifestyle/travel/auckland-airport-in-top-50-for-customer-satisfaction-skytrax-2025/ /lifestyle/travel/auckland-airport-in-top-50-for-customer-satisfaction-skytrax-2025/ Auckland Airport is ranked 46th in Skytrax’s 2025 global airport satisfaction awards. It was the third highest in the Australasia-Pacific region, behind Melbourne and Brisbane. Chief customer officer Scott Tasker highlighted improvements like a transport hub and express lane for efficiency. By RNZ Auckland Airport has made the top 50 in a global ranking of airports based on customer satisfaction. The country’s biggest airport has ranked No 46 in the British-based airline and airport review website Skytrax’s 2025 awards. Its annual survey evaluates passenger experience from check-in and security to shopping and boarding. Topping the rankings for the 13th year in a row was Singapore’s Changi Airport. Auckland Airport was the third highest ranked airport in the Australasia-Pacific region behind Melbourne and Brisbane. The airport also came fourth among airports handling 10-20 million passengers annually. Easier, faster Auckland Airport chief customer officer Scott Tasker said the airport had introduced changes in the past year aimed at making it easier and faster for travellers to get through the airport. “We’ve opened the transport hub at the front entrance to the international terminal and we’ve been upgrading wayfinding signage to make it clear to customers where to go. “MPI [Ministry for Primary Industries] have also enabled an express lane at the international terminal, which has helped create efficient processing while maintaining border security. “This, along with the uptake in the New Zealand traveller declaration has allowed a smoother arrival for customers coming in from international destinations. “Aviation Security have been rolling out CT scanners across both terminals, meaning travellers can leave laptops and items in their carry on at the security checkpoint, which has meant shorter queues for customers.” He said work to integrate the airport’s domestic and international terminals was under way and would include modernised bathroom facilities, new flooring and more seating for the domestic terminal. -RNZ Sun, 27 Apr 2025 03:59:33 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-sights-and-sounds-of-salzburg/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-sights-and-sounds-of-salzburg/ Few cities in the world enjoy the stature of being a music mecca quite like Salzburg. It’s one of my favourite European destinations and I recently ventured back to this Austrian jewel with Trafalgar, as part of their magnificent 10-day Imperial Europe tour. It’s like a tasting plate of some of Central Europe’s most glittering destinations, steeped in history and spilling with scenic finery. And it’s all spectacularly brought to life with specialist local guides who live and breathe these destinations, with unbridled passion and pride.  Salzburg is a star specimen, the splendidly preserved hometown of one of history's most beloved composers, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart - stamping Salzburg on the tourist map for as long as there's been one. More recently, it's been a pilgrimage site for Sound of Music fans, with most of the film's iconic scenes shot in and near the city. But with its treasure-chest old town, splendid gardens, Baroque churches, and one of Europe's largest intact medieval fortresses, all surrounded by alpine wonder, Salzburg feels made for tourism. Hohensalzburg Fortress, which towers 400 feet above the city’s baroque domes and spires, was built to look so foreboding, nobody attacked the town for a thousand years.  Anna and the Trafalgar group in Salzburg. Photo / Mike Yardley Even without Mozart and the Von Trapps, Salzburg’s blinding beauty and quirky back-story would have no trouble attracting tourist hordes. The city feels like a little world unto itself – partly due to its distinctive geography, with an Old Town that’s wedged between a river on one side and sheer mountain cliffs on the other. As our local specialist guide Anna remarked, Salzburg was also an independent city-state until little more than 200 years ago. 1300 years ago, Salzburg was given to Bishop Rupert by Bavaria with a clear mission to Christianise the area.   Its prosperity was powered by the nearby salt mines, and this city-state of ruling prince-archbishops steadily built fanciful palaces and elegant squares. (Many housed illegitimate children, fathered by these decadent rulers, noted Anna.) Italian Baroque flair became the favoured architectural style, which is what still dominates the fairytale cityscape today. Napoleon put an end to Salzburg’s independence, and after his fall the city became part of Austria.  Atmospheric Old Town Salzburg. Photo / Mike Yardley To get a sense of Salzburg's lingering grandeur we started off by prowling the twisting cobbled lanes of the Old Town, lined with harmonious pastel buildings. Make a beeline for Mozart’s birthplace (Geburtshaus), a still-intact townhouse on the main shopping street of Getreidegasse, that was his home for most of his brief 35-year life. (He died of chronic kidney disease.) It was here that Mozart learned to play piano and violin and composed his first boy-genius works. You’ll see his square piano, childhood viola, and plenty of other memorabilia. The prize piece is an old clavichord on which he supposedly composed his final work – the Requiem, which was played for his own funeral. The city still hums with his precocious energy.  Zig-zagging our way through the medieval maze led us to the grand cathedral, one of the first Baroque buildings north of the Alps. Mozart was baptised here and would later be the cathedral organist for a couple of years. Free organ concerts usually follow Sunday morning mass. Mozart concerts are held every night, at multiple venues, across the city. And be sure to get your fill of his balls. Mozart balls, or Mozartkugel, as Salzburgers say. These delicious chocolate and pistachio marzipan balls are the quintessential Salzburg souvenir, if you haven’t scoffed them all before you get home.  If you’re a fan of old-school coffee houses, pop into Café Tomaselli for a caffeine fix. Mozart would regularly dine and drink almond milk here. And you can see his statue in the square now named Mozartplatz, just adjacent to the cathedral.   Our walking tour through Salzburg also included some emblematic sites immortalised in the Sound of Music. None more so than Mirabell Gardens and Palace (which also hosts Mozart concerts.) The manicured gardens are best known as the Do-Rei-Me gardens. And we walked by Nonnberg Abbey, where Maria joined the convent. Our guide Anna remarked there are still 27 Benedictine nuns in the abbey. Although it’s not open to the public, you can visit the church where the nuns will sing Gregorian chants every morning at 6:45am.   Mirabell Garden Gates. Photo / Supplied I also took the opportunity to revel in some of Salzburg’s signature dining destinations, at what may well be Europe's oldest restaurant. Stiftskeller St. Peter (cellar of St. Peter's Abbey), is about 1200 years old. Opened in 803AD, its ancient cave-like cloisters is the ultimate in evocative settings. Situated a stone’s throw from Salzburg Cathedral, it’s hard to go past the Weiner Schnitzel with parsley potatoes and homemade cranberry confit. Their spinach dumplings are superb, too. Sweet tooths? Definitely tuck into Salzburger Nockerl. It’s a dessert staple across the city.  This sweet souffle salutes the three peaks that backdrop the city. This cranberry confit and icing sugar-topped mountain of soufflé is so big, you could almost ski-jump off it.   My visit to Salzburg with Trafalgar also included two riveting optional tours which prises up the surrounding alpine grandeur, headlined by the Bavarian Alps that its shares with Germany and the chocolate-box villages of the Lakes District. The hills in these parts will certainly come alive for Sound of Music fans, because the district holds more iconic movie locations, including the alpine meadow in the opening sequence where Julie Andrews twirled her way across, on Mount Untersberg.   The moviest of all movies is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year and it’s estimated that 40% of visitors to Salzburg are lured there by the movie ringing in their ears. How’s that for set-jetting! My Trafalgar travel director Kate remarked that despite the movie’s Oscars acclaim, it is still unfamiliar to many European audiences. When it was released in 1965, much of central and eastern Europe did not screen it because its Nazi themes were deemed “too raw, too soon” for movie audiences. Most Austrians will never have heard of the movie.   We visited the dreamy Lakes District, studded with 67 glacial lakes in all their bejewelled beauty. Highlights include St Gilgen, from which steamboats ply Lake St. Wolfgang in summer. Mozart's mother was born here. The there’s Fuschl, that’s proudly home to the management headquarters of Red Bull.  But the top-billing village is Mondsee. Its gorgeous Benedictine church was where the marriage of Maria and the Baron was filmed. Kate mentioned that last summer a Saudi sheik based himself at his palatial Mondsee lakehouse, bringing with him his 23 wives. That would take some wrangling!  St. Wolfgang Lake. Photo / Supplied Another stirring tour, deftly navigated by our Trafalgar coach driver Blajee, zipped us up Germany’s highest mountain road, the Eagle’s Nest Road, which tops out at 1847m above sea level. Just across the border from Salzburg in the Bavarian Alps, the road from Obersalzberg to the Eagle’s Nest is considered a feat of engineering, blasted out of solid rock in only 13 months' time. In the 1930s, after becoming the German chancellor, Adolf Hitler was looking for the perfect spot to establish an official mountain retreat – a Camp David for his regime.   He chose Obersalzberg, which is a dramatically scenic mountainside area, just uphill from the resort town of Berchtesgaden. Obersalzberg became home to an enormous compound of 80 buildings —fenced off from the public after 1936 and connected by massive bunkers— where the major decisions leading up to World War II were hatched. Much of it was bombed by the Royal Air Force in 1945, but the bombers missed hitting the Eagle’s Nest chalet.   Eagle's Nest in Obersalzburg. Photo / Supplied Eagle’s Nest was a 50th birthday present to Adolf Hitler from his inner circle.  Perched alone amid spectacular alpine scenery, the lodge looms like a Bond villain's lair. An ornate brass elevator was built to whisk Hitler and his guests up the last 120 metres to the lodge, from the end of the mountain road. This building, which is now a summer restaurant, is one of the few undamaged monuments of the Hitler era. Today however it still offers a magnificent and unique view of the surrounding countryside, but also an opportunity to reflect on the abject horrors of its previous owner.   Tour Differently. Travelling with Trafalgar means you won’t just see the world – but you’ll experience it with authenticity at the forefront. Tour adventurously, from the must-sees to hidden secrets, and tour locally with those priceless encounters with the locals. Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour has a starting price of $4,422 per person, twin share and includes a savings of up to $600 per person. Valid on select travel dates June, July and August 2025. Subject to availability. Call 0800 484 333, visit trafalgar.com or see your local Travel Agent.  Cathay Pacific is spreading its wings in Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August, which will increase its reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. Cathay Pacific’s Munich flights will be operated by advanced A350-900s, as they do between Auckland and Hong Kong. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. cathaypacific.com   Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on 九一星空无限talk ZB.  Sat, 26 Apr 2025 00:15:26 Z /lifestyle/travel/woman-on-nz-sydney-flight-charged-after-allegedly-abusing-assaulting-crew-in-the-air/ /lifestyle/travel/woman-on-nz-sydney-flight-charged-after-allegedly-abusing-assaulting-crew-in-the-air/ A 44-year-old Australian woman has been charged with allegedly assaulting crew on a flight to Sydney. She also allegedly resisted and assaulted Australian Federal Police officers at Sydney Airport. The woman faces six charges and is due back in court in June. A passenger on a transtasman flight is facing a raft of charges after allegedly assaulting crew members, scratching police officers and causing significant disruption during the Sydney-bound trip. The passenger, identified as a 44-year-old woman from Western Australia, is accused of abusing airline crew during the flight when they confronted her about alleged inappropriate and antisocial behaviour. She is also accused of allegedly resisting and assaulting Australian Federal Police (AFP) officers as they attempted to remove her from the flight when it landed at Sydney Airport. The flight left New Zealand on Easter Monday and arrived at Sydney Airport that night. An Australian Federal Police spokesperson said the woman was engaging in “inappropriate, disruptive and antisocial behaviour” onboard the flight, prompting crew members to speak to her about her conduct. The woman became verbally and physically abusive towards the crew, causing them to raise the alarm with police, who were waiting for her when the plane landed at Sydney Airport. The woman was removed from the plane when it landed in Australia, said the spokesperson. The April 21 flight was bound for Sydney from an undisclosed New Zealand airport. Photo / Destination NSW However, once they boarded the plane, the woman allegedly refused to follow the officers’ orders, at one point physically assaulting them. Both suffered scratches on their arms and elbows while removing the passenger from the plane. The woman appeared at Sydney’s Downing Centre Local Court yesterday facing six charges relating to the Sunday incident. The charges included allegedly assaulting airline crew members, engaging in disorderly behaviour during a flight and resisting and harming police officers. In a statement following Tuesday’s court proceedings, AFP acting Sydney Airport police commander Daniel Hunt said AFP had a zero-tolerance policy for passengers exhibiting disruptive or antisocial behaviour on flights and within airports throughout Australia. “All passengers and airline staff have the right to feel safe, and it would be particularly frightening to be trapped in a confined space in the air with someone behaving badly. “AFP officers responding to calls for assistance at our airports should be able to do so without being subjected to such violence and aggression. “Travellers who break the law will be dealt with swiftly.” The woman is expected back in court in June. Tom Rose is an Auckland-based journalist who covers breaking news, specialising in lifestyle, entertainment and travel. He joined the Herald in 2023. Wed, 23 Apr 2025 01:22:39 Z /lifestyle/travel/tips-tricks-and-mistakes-to-avoid-when-booking-a-south-pacific-holiday-trip-notes/ /lifestyle/travel/tips-tricks-and-mistakes-to-avoid-when-booking-a-south-pacific-holiday-trip-notes/ School holidays may be underway right now, but if you are thinking of a Pacific Island escape as we get further into winter – you may want to rethink your plans. On this week’s episode of Trip Notes, the NZ Herald’s travel podcast, host Lorna Riley is talking what you need to know about the Pacific Islands with Jo Coolen, the owner-operator of House of Travel Kāpiti Coast. She recommends that people look at seven to 10 days for their holiday, particularly if you want to explore more than one island. And there are some specific times to look at if you want to save money. “For Kiwis, we like to escape our winter. If you go in our summer, it’s the rainy season, which a lot of people thinks ‘meh’, but there’s less people. It might have a big shower and then warm up again straight away, so not too bad at all. Your prices might be a little bit better too. And the busiest season? “Definitely school holidays. School holidays are tricky.” With so many islands on our doorstep to choose from, you might think you can do it without seeing your travel agent, but Coolen said that people can sometimes make mistakes when booking. “Probably one of the biggest mistakes we see people make with the time zone for the Cook Islands, so people have got their flight arriving and they haven’t gotten anywhere to sleep. Or you might book an extra night at the other end not realising, so it is tricky. “We know our places inside out and I think it’s about matching the right island to the right customer. We’re not gonna send somebody that’s looking for Gucci shopping for example to Samoa. Photo / Samoa Tourism Authority “You’ve just got to qualify your customers and understand what it is they’re really after. And sometimes they don’t know themselves ‘cause they dunno the options. They keep going back to the same place, because that’s what they know.” Throughout the podcast, Coolen shared her tips for visiting some of the islands in the South Pacific: Niue: “ If you are wanting a nice golden sandy beach holiday, it’s not the place to go. But if you’re wanting beautiful caves, gin, clear water. You know, lots of seafood, lots of fishing, swimming with whales, swimming with dolphins, all that sort of stuff, it’s your place. Very laid back mindset.” Swim in crystal-clear waters, snorkel with dolphins, and try fresh island cuisine. Photo / Niue Tourism Samoa: “ I would say it’s probably like the Cook Islands was 20, 50 years ago. The infrastructure’s not quite as good or as busy as perhaps the Cook Islands. “[We’re] sending people out to Savai’i, which is the outer island, which is quite popular and it’s just a step back again in busyness. so you can go and flop and drop. Vanuatu: “They had the big earthquake in December and they’re just sort of rebuilding, but they are welcoming visitors with open arms, so we are really excited to see that back. “ I think like anywhere, just go with the flow, get friendly with the locals. One thing I always say to people, try and learn a little bit of a local saying – try and learn something that’s a little bit more local and you win friends.” Vanuatu is a great spot for Kiwi travellers. Photo / 123rf Fiji: “There’s heaps of adventure stuff starting in Fiji now. Towards the Coral Coast, you’ve got some zip lining, you’ve got jet boating on the Sigatoka River. “I think one of a really lovely thing to do is either a Blue Lagoon cruise. or island hopping around the Yasawas. So they’re about a four-hour ferry ride from the mainland.” Listen to the full episode for more advice and tips for travel in the South Pacific. Trip Notes is an NZ Herald podcast hosted by Lorna Riley, a keen travel writer and enthusiast and host of Coast Days. New episodes are available every Tuesday. Tue, 22 Apr 2025 02:24:20 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-waltzing-vienna-with-trafalgar/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-waltzing-vienna-with-trafalgar/ You could spill vast rivers of blue Danube ink try to encapsulate the enduring brilliance of Vienna and all that it has lavished on the world. It’s the city that vaulted Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Strauss and his waltz into the world’s consciousness. The city that unleashed the genius of Freud, published the world’s first newspaper, conceived the delicious Torte, and was the powerbase for the imperial Hapsburgs. Vienna remains a city of culture, class and beauty; of churches, castles and concert halls.   I recently returned to the Austrian capital as part of Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour, which serves up a superbly curated string of authentic encounters in some seriously decorated destinations. As my Trafalgar travel director Kate remarked, “Vienna elevated coffee onto the highest pedestal.” And as a major caffeine fiend, Vienna’s revered coffee houses pleasingly loomed large on the agenda.   It’s ironic that the rampaging Ottoman Turks, who desperately tried to seize strategically important Vienna, inadvertently sowed the seeds for one of its great legacies. Defeated Turkish forces left behind many bags of coffee beans, giving rise to the great cafe society. Although as I discovered in Vienna, the locals who discovered the bags weren’t exactly sure what to do with them. At first, they thought the beans should be added to soup. It was only after they pumped some imprisoned Turkish soldiers for knowledge, that Vienna’s long love affair with coffee was first unleashed.   Four centuries later, the classic coffee houses, resplendent with plush velvet seats, Thonet chairs, and marble tables remain crucial to the city’s soul and social pulse. Add to that, the more than 2000 ‘modern’ cafes in Vienna. During our Trafalgar walkabout, local specialist guide Claudia mentioned the city centre still boasts a whopping 100 coffee houses. And we ventured to Cafe Demel. Located a stone’s throw from the creamy curved splendour of Hofburg Palace and the constant clop-clop-clop of the horse and carriage trade, this Kohlmarkt café is widely considered by Vienna’s coffee and cake connoisseurs as an institution.    Kaiserschmarrn at Cafe Demel. Photo / Supplied The old-school pastry shop and confectioner was established in 1786 and still bears the title of a Purveyor to the Imperial and Royal Court. The café you see today, decorated in Rococo style and complemented by Regency furnishings, was established a century later, shortly after Franz Josef I pulled down the city walls and developed the famous Ring Strasse, which circles the heart of the city, edged by showpiece architecture like the Austrian Parliament, inspired by the Parthenon in Athens.   Café Demel is staffed by efficient white-aproned waitresses, order up a Wiener Melange, which is an expresso with steamed milk and foam. Or go full fancy with a Fiaker Coffee – large espresso with cherry schnapps & whipped cream.  A local sweet treat at Demel that I quickly succumbed to was buchtein: fluffy yeast dumplings stuffed with apricot jam and served with hot vanilla sauce. They’re also a go-to for Kaiserschmarrn with stewed plums. Kaiserschmarrn is best described as fluffy shredded pancakes, which takes its name from the Hapsburg emperor Franz Joseph I, who was very fond of them. Claudia mentioned that Vienna's oldest coffee house is Cafe Frauenhuber, which celebrated its 200th birthday last year.   Originally a restaurant from the 18th century, it is claimed that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Ludwig van Beethoven performed table music here. Café Central is another venerable establishment, fawned over by poets and philosophers since the 1870s. I also opted for the more contemporary Viennese offering at Café Aida, bedecked in a Barbie pink glow. I ordered up an Einspanner – large espresso with whipped cream in the glass. The counter cabinet titillates with the most dazzling display of tortes, including the famous Sacher Torte (filled with apricot jam), which was conceived in the nearby Sacher Hotel. But I opted to gorge myself on a large bowl of apple strudel bathed in hot vanilla sauce. It was decadently, indecently good.   Cabinet temptations at Cafe Aida. Photo / Mike Yardley More signature bites? The runaway icon is Wiener Schnitzel, which traditionally, is a cutlet of veal pounded thin by a meat tenderiser, then dipped in flour, egg and breadcrumbs, and fried until golden. If a restaurant sells Wiener Schnitzel made from some other meat than veal, then they have to say so. Veal is from young calves, an incredibly tender meat and milder than beef. Given its exorbitant price, the cheaper alternative is pork, beef or chicken schnitzel. Don’t be surprised to get a near pizza-sized piece of Schnitzel deposited on your plate with the only vegetable in sight a sprig of parsley as a garnish.  Most locals will order a side dish of potato salad. Just behind St Stephen’s Cathedral, in the maze of old town lanes, stake out the 120 year old Figlmuller Restaurant, which bills itself as the home of the original Wiener Schnitzel – although they didn’t create it. They also do a pork version, Figlmuller Schniztel, which is so big, it will protrude over your dinner plate. The quintessential street food to wrap your lips around is leberkase, which is kind of like a slice of meatloaf inside a crusty bun. The meat is typically a combination of finely chopped pork, bacon and beef. Wild boar is popular at Christmas. But resembling a pinkish pate, it is remarkably tasty and best served heated.   Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmuller. Photo / Supplied Shopping, noshing and lingering is a most alluring pursuit in Kohlmarkt, which is Vienna’s luxury retail row. A slew of high-end stores flank the pedestrianised cobblestones – and not just the usual suspects like Gucci and Prada, but one-off speciality stores. From Kohlmarkt, head to the golden retail sweep of Karntner Strasse. Heavily pedestrianised, the only notable rivals to the frenetic foot traffic is the clop-clop-clop of the horse and carriage brigade. Vienna’s abiding affection with this romantic form of transport stretches back many centuries, and the fiaker (as the locals call a carriage-rider) is a very prestigious job.   The central terminus for the horse and carriage trade is situated outside Vienna’s august Gothic cathedral, St. Stephen’s. Dating back to the 13th century, the cathedral’s soaring spires dominate the skyline. “The Steffl” as it’s informally called, was severely damaged by bombing raids during World War II, and its rebuilding was a potent symbol of hope as Austria emerged from the ashes of conflict. Claudia also pointed out a sublime perch over the city centre, the Sky Garden which adorns the roof top of Steffl department store. The panoramic glass elevator ride up to the roof is worth the visit alone.  Carriage rides by the Hofburg. Photo / Mike Yardley  At the southern end of Karntner Strasse, the Vienna State Opera House is unquestionably one of the world’s most acclaimed concert halls. The masterworks of Mozart, Beethoven and company continue to be performed every week at the opera house, which also offers daily tours. The Renaissance-style opera house has a busy roster of magical evenings of stirring classical music. The city swells with music but it’s a notable year for Strauss fans because Vienna is lustily celebrating the 200th birthday of Johann Strauss II, the King of Waltz.   His most famous piece is the Blue Danube and there’s a year-long roster of celebration concerts and events in Vienna. He was the Harry Styles of his day, a wildly idolised popstar, and quite the womaniser. Some historians claim he was engaged 13 times. Alongside the Mozart statue in the Royal Gardens, definitely check-out the freshly spruced-up golden statue of Strauss in Stadtpark, just off the Ring Strasse, where regular open-air concerts will be staged.  John Strauss monument. Photo / Mike Yardley  With a mix of art exhibitions, palatial interiors, striking sculpture and manicured lawns, the Belvedere Palace remains my favourite regal spot in Vienna. Constructed by Prince Eugen to celebrate the defeat of the invading Ottoman Turks in 1683, it is now one of Vienna’s most popular weekend haunts. The locals love flocking here to kick-back. The French-style formal gardens are replete with fountains and topiary, however it’s the classic statuary, complete with Greek mythological figures, that are particularly eye-catching. The Belvedere also houses the world’s largest collection of oil paintings by the renowned Austrian painter, Gustav Klimt, culminating with his most acclaimed work, The Kiss, which is a major crowd-puller.   The former Imperial Palace of the Hapsburgs, the Hofburg, is still home base for the Vienna Boys’ Choir in the Royal Chapel, and the Spanish Riding School. The elegant white Lipizzaner stallions of the Spanish Riding School were regularly used by the Hapsburgs for military equestrian pursuits, imperial celebrations and entertainment. They been a Viennese staple for over 400 years.   Probably most famous boys’ choir in the world, which now also includes girls, the choir has been going strong for over 500 years. On Sundays, the choir performs as part of traditional mass at the Hofburg Chapel, which is the easiest way of experiencing them in Vienna. Although you’ll only hear them during the mass, following the service, they appear in front of the altar to perform a small number of works for the public. An optional tour with Trafalgar gave us preferential access upon opening to Schonbrunn Palace. Inspired by Versailles, this bling-bling behemoth served as the Habsburg emperors' summer residence, with elaborate gardens and a staggering 1400 rooms.   Getting a jump on the queues, particularly at Austria’s most-visited attraction, is an undeniable advantage travelling with Trafalgar delivers. The city is ringed by the Vienna Woods on three sides and another superb optional tour with Trafalgar zips you up to Kahlenberg Mountain in the Vienna Woods, which was the epic site of the Battle of Vienna. The city had been besieged by the Ottoman Empire for two months, but the Hapsburg Empire, aided by many fellow Christian rulers, finally defeated the invading Turks here in 1683, abruptly ending their march across Europe. The wooded hills have been preserved for centuries and are credited for maintaining Vienna’s stature as having Europe’s best urban air quality.   For some cheap thrills to top off your waltz through Vienna, make a date with Prater, one of the oldest amusement parks in the world. Ever since 1766 when Prater first opened to the public, it has been a nursery for many of the world’s formative carnival rides, including the world’s first ghost train. Its enduring landmark attraction is the Riesenrad (Giant Ferris wheel), which was built in 1897 to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Emperor Franz Josef I. Still considered the oldest operating ferris wheel in the world, it was severely damaged in WWII, destroying half of the cabins. Just as James Bond did in The Living Daylights, take a ride in one of the 15 meticulously restored cabins for more enchanting rooftop views and fairground fun. No martinis, included.  The Reisenrad ferris wheel at Prater Park. Photo / Mike Yardley  Another notable feature of my Trafalgar experience was the distinctive accommodation. Vienna was a star specimen, where we stayed at the Imperial Riding School, which is now part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection. Magnificently refreshed as a hotel, Emperor Franz Joseph I established the property as his military equestrian school in the 19th century, close to Belvedere Palace. His regal impact can still be felt in the vaulted ceilings and striking archways that pervade the surviving majestic front building. You’ll discover all manner of nods to its heritage, from the stable-inspired floors to the plethora of apple delights, plucked from the orchard that is in the same spot as the apple trees that Franz Joseph I famously loved. It’s a stirring hotel experience.  Tour Differently. Travelling with Trafalgar means you won’t just see the world – but you’ll experience it with authenticity at the forefront. Tour adventurously, from the must-sees to hidden secrets, and tour locally with those priceless encounters with the locals. Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour has a starting price of $4,422 per person, twin share and includes a savings of up to $600 per person. Valid on select travel dates June, July and August 2025. Subject to availability. Call 0800 484 333, visit www.trafalgar.com, or see your local Travel Agent.  Cathay Pacific is spreading its wings in Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August, which will increase its reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. Cathay Pacific’s Munich flights will be operated by advanced A350-900s, as they do between Auckland and Hong Kong. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. www.cathaypacific.com Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on 九一星空无限talk ZB.  Fri, 18 Apr 2025 21:29:36 Z /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-headline-experiences-in-munich/ /lifestyle/travel/mike-yardley-headline-experiences-in-munich/ As spring began to bud and bloom in Munich, I embraced the season of renewal by joining Trafalgar on their riveting 10 day Imperial Europe guided coach tour, which strings together a necklace of enchanting destinations. It’s a cracking introduction to the richness of Central Europe – kind of like a glorified greatest hits tour. Introducing our ebullient travel director Kate, who was a seasoned pro at bringing destinations alive with extraordinary story-telling and a wickedly dry, irreverent sense of humour. She rightly suggested we approach the tour like a lavish buffet, with the opportunity to dabble with a variety of treats.   In addition to the excellent included sightseeing, there’s plenty of free time allowing you the flexibility to explore at your own place. It’s a winning balance. Starting and ending in Munich, the irresistible highlights reel includes Prague, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest and Salzburg. Our convivial band of travellers from the USA, Canda, Australia and Singapore gelled faster than the casing of a bratwurst, as we strolled the sophisticated streets of the Bavarian capital on an introductory walking tour.   Kate acquainted us with a swag of intriguing, storied and simply sensational landmarks and attractions, including Marienplatz, the heart of the old town since the city was founded nearly 1000 years ago. Yes, we admired the glockenspiel and its cherished puppetry performance. Additional highlights included one of the world’s most celebrated opera houses, the Bayerische Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) - steeped in 350 years of history. In a city teeming with palaces and museums, the Residenz Palace is still a compelling and imposing site, formerly the Bavarian royalty’s seat of power, edged by the lovely, leafy Hofgarten.   Marienplatz and travel director Kate with Traflgar group. Photo / Mike Yardley Kate remarked that Residenz hosts Munich’s best Christmas market, with the adjoining streets garlanded in crystal chandeliers. For a view over the city’s red-tiled rooftops, head to St. Peter's Church, located just behind Marienplatz. I like to get my fill of old churches and Kate implored me to experience a true hidden treasure, Asamkirche on Sendlinger Strasse, where “your jaw will drop to the floor.” She wasn’t wrong. This masterpiece 18th century rococo church is a dazzler, a jewel box of frescoes, sculptures and extravagant stuccowork that was created by two brothers as a private chapel. It was so good they were forced to make it a public church.   Further afield, it was a thrill to see the old Olympic Park and Allianz Stadium, home to Bayern Munich.  The massive stadium’s white outer shell is made of air cushions that are illuminated in splashy red during Bayern home games. Another hot haunt in the warmer months is the Isar River, where the Bavarian birthday suit brigade flocks in their thousands to sunbathe and swim. You have been warned!  We especially loved the old town’s "Platzl" neighbourhood, where the magnificent town houses and cobblestones create a cozy, timeless ambience. Platzl is also home to the world-famous Hofbrauhaus, a powerhouse of Munich's beer tradition since 1589. It’s readily apparent how many Munchners are Bavarians first and Germans second. This rich and powerful state was of course once its own kingdom, only becoming part of Germany a century ago, and it zealously retains an independent state of mind. Within the eye-catching neo-Renaissance building, there were no shortage of locals dressed in traditional Bavarian attire. Hello, lederhosen!   Hofbrauhaus beer hall in Munich. Photo / Supplied Our Trafalgar group also ventured to Zum Franziskaner, for an included dinner, feasting on port knuckle and beef roulade, plus savouring a classic Bavarian lager, Lowenbrau. This is a quintessential Helles lager and Lowenbrau has been brewing since 1383! The Reinbold family transformed a small tavern into this powerhouse traditional venue nearly 60 years ago and it’s a hospitality beacon. This buzzing beer hall pulls a huge crowd of locals – so you know it’s going to be good.   Kate also pointed out a variety of sites, intricately linked to the rise of Adolf Hitler, in the birthplace city of the Nazi Party. Munich was also the headquarters, and command centre of the Third Reich. As she soberly noted, the city’s soul is still troubled by its Nazi legacy and struggles to cleanse itself completely. Hitler’s imprint lingers. Only recently, an eternal flame to the victims of Nazi persecution was established, because of sustained local resistance. Pointedly, the Documentation Centre which focuses on all things related to the Nazi Party and its shameful rise in Munich was deliberately located next to Hitler’s offices, the former “Fuhrer Building.” This is where the infamous Munich Agreement in 1938 was signed by the UK’s Neville Chamberlain.   Fuhrer Building in Munich. Photo / TripAdvisor From the reality-defying decadence of fairy-tale castles to the horror and solemnity of one of Europe’s most notorious concentration camps, there are two stand-out daytrips that should be added on to a Munich stay, if you have time. Just an hour out of Munich by train, Neuschwanstein Castle is a bucket-lister. Commissioned by King Ludwig II, this fairy tale castle overlooks the picturesque Hohenschwangau valley and was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle. Construction began in 1869, but given the exact tastes of King Ludwig II, progress was painfully slow. For example, it took 14 carpenters four and a half years just to complete the woodwork in Ludwig's bedroom.   The King was an immense devotee of Richard Wagner, even going as far as naming the castle after a character in one of Wagner's operas—the Swan Knight.  Tapestries depicting scenes from Wagner's opera festoon many interiors of this whimsical pleasure palace.  Construction was halted on the castle and Ludwig II was removed by power due to intrigue within his own cabinet. The King himself was rarely concerned with matters of state and was sometimes thought to suffer from hallucinations. However, what frightened the cabinet were the rumours of their possible removal. Under Bavarian law, a King could be removed from power if he were found unfit to rule, so his cabinet deposed him.    Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. Photo / Supplied However, Ludwig's mysterious death—ruled a suicide at the time—suggests that the cabinet was not content to merely remove him from power. This jigsaw piece of mystery endures, adding to the atmosphere of intrigue at Neuschwanstein. Only fourteen rooms were finished before Ludwig's death and my absolute favourite is the throne room, the supreme picture of opulence, with intricate frescos of angels decorating the walls. There is no throne, only a raised dais, due to Ludwig II’s removal before a throne could be built. This amazing landmark was bathed in snow on my recent visit, however, whatever time of year you plan a visit, Neuschwanstein is unfailingly spectacular.   For a complete change of scenery, take the short 20 minute train trip from Munich to Dachau, and the poignant memorial site of the Dachau Concentration Camp, the first and longest running Nazi concentration camp. The vast gallery of photographic displays, the spartan cell blocks, bunk beds, crematorium and gas chamber all add to the powerful sense of emotion, when visiting this camp.   Front gate of Dachau Camp. Photo / Supplied More than 41,000 of the 200,000-plus prisoners lost their lives here. The former camp has become more than just a grisly memorial: it's now a place where people of all nations meet to reflect upon the egregious sins of the past and its enduring impact on the world. What I found particularly striking on my last trip to Dachau, was the overwhelming number of young visitors exploring the site of so much horror.  Tour Differently. Travelling with Trafalgar means you won’t just see the world – but you’ll experience it with authenticity at the forefront. Tour adventurously, from the must-sees to hidden secrets, and tour locally with those priceless encounters with the locals. Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour has a starting price of $4,422 per person, twin share and includes a savings of up to $600 per person. Valid on select travel dates June, July and August 2025. Subject to availability. Call 0800 484 333, visit www.trafalgar.com or see your local Travel Agent.  Cathay Pacific is spreading its wings in Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August, which will increase its reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. Cathay Pacific’s Munich flights will be operated by advanced A350-900s, as they do between Auckland and Hong Kong. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. www.cathaypacific.com   Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on 九一星空无限talk ZB.  Sat, 12 Apr 2025 00:33:04 Z /lifestyle/travel/air-new-zealand-unveils-new-uniform-by-kiwi-designer-emilia-wickstead/ /lifestyle/travel/air-new-zealand-unveils-new-uniform-by-kiwi-designer-emilia-wickstead/ London-based New Zealand fashion designer Emilia Wickstead tells Varsha Anjali what it was like designing the new Air New Zealand uniform, which makes its public debut today.  World-renowned Kiwi fashion designer Emilia Wickstead unveiled her new uniform design for Air New Zealand today – 14 years after the airline’s last uniform update.  Wickstead, known for her sophisticated and empowering designs, was announced as Air NZ’s uniform designer in November 2023. While she has dressed several high-profile clients, including the Princess of Wales, designing for thousands of Air New Zealand cabin crew, pilots, ground staff and managers came with its unique pain points.  “Pleasing everybody has kept me up all night,” the London-based designer, who was in Auckland for the launch, tells the Herald.  World-renowned Kiwi designer Emilia Wickstead is based in London.  “I’ve been brought on board to design for 6000 people and to make them feel comfortable and the best versions of themselves,” Wickstead says.  “That is a huge responsibility and I take it very, very seriously ... but I hope that from having listened to everybody, understanding what their likes and their dislikes are... that they’re wearing the uniform as opposed to the uniform wearing them.  “I feel like I’ve ticked those boxes and hopefully it’s gonna be a grand success.”  A blouse and skirt from Air NZ's new uniform collection, designed by Emilia Wickstead.  Remarkably, Wickstead didn’t suffer from much of a creative block during the process. “I had probably too many ideas, and that was a little bit problematic,” she says.  “I had lots of different colours and little tweaks and ideas, and it was hard actually, because you want to represent so many things and ... this is your one moment to shine on a global scale for New Zealand.  A kākā feather print waistcoat replaces the current 'Kiwiana' design.  While working with purple was a non-negotiable, given its status as the national carrier’s signature colour, the designer shared the thoughtful reasoning behind her choice of that particular shade.  “It felt like a shade of purple that I feel passionate about, that I love, that felt strong and impactful, that felt ... almost like quite a responsible purple, very strong.”  Key pieces in the collection include “The Fine Print – Dress", featuring an intricate kōwhai print, and “The Collective Thread – Shirt", adorned with feather patterns. There is a bold pinstripe suit for pilots and Pasifika team members will also trial an Ie Faitaga.  From 2026, the new uniform will be rolled out across the airline’s network.  Each garment showcases intricate patterns rich in stories, designed to empower and reflect New Zealand’s identity. For instance, Matariki stars are stitched on shirt sleeves, and managers have a distinctive huia feather design.  Some features are only visible to the person wearing the garment - the cabin crew jackets, for example, are lined with a detailed print of purple kākā feather, while the ones for pilots are lined with white kiwi feather.  “There was that idea that they were ... putting on their cloak, their role of responsibility and carrying that weight on their shoulder - and it was for them,” an emotional Wickstead explained at an exclusive first-look event on Thursday night.  “As you walk, it’s bringing that mana back to how we dress and how our spiritual kind of self should represent.”  In an Air New Zealand press release, chief executive Greg Foran said the uniform represents the best of Air NZ and Aotearoa.  “For us, this is more than just a uniform. It is a celebration of our people, our culture, and our values. Air NZ has never been about standing still or blending in. We have a tradition of being bold, showcasing what makes us unique, and celebrating our team members.  “Our new uniform encapsulates everything we stand for – a combination of innovation, rich cultural heritage, and a deep sense of pride and belonging.”  A collaboration of two powerhouses: Emilia Wickstead and Te Rangitu Netana.  Collaborating with Wickstead is Bristol-based tā moko artist Te Rangitu Netana (Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Wai and Te Arawa), whose hand-drawn print designs used in the uniforms are a “reflection of the land, the sea and the connections that bind us all as Kiwi”, he said.  Wickstead describes her collaboration with Netana as a valuable experience, saying she has “learned a lot” from him. She refers to him as a “teacher”, a “great storyteller” and a “talented artist”.  “I’m not Māori. I’m Polynesian, New Zealand, Italian,” she tells the Herald.  Air New Zealand's new pilot uniform.  “So it was really, really important for me to do everything correctly, and it was really important for me as well to collaborate and to learn – and that’s exactly what we did.  On what legacy she hoped the uniform would bring, Wickstead says, “I hope that we stand like loud and proud through those airports and everybody knows it and loves it just as much as we do ... that we are noticed for so many meanings behind this uniform.”  Air NZ said an onboard wearer trial will begin in May, before a period of testing and feedback from staff members. From 2026, the new uniform will be rolled out across the airline’s network.  The airline’s current uniform was designed by Trelise Cooper, who first launched the iconic yet polarising collection in 2011. Before that, from 2005, the staff wore a collection designed by Zambesi.  The collection in a snapshot  The Fine Print – Dress: Includes a tui knot neckline, featuring the iconic kōwhai print, inspired by Māori heritage and the story of Ngatoro-i-Rangi, symbolising protection, responsibility, and belonging.  The Collective Thread – Shirt: A versatile, inclusive design with bold prints and a tui knot neckline, designed to be worn by any crew or ground staff member.  The Wrap Around – Trench: Features a purple pinstripe, offering both craftsmanship and comfort.  The Woven One – Ie Faitaga: A cultural garment to be trialled by Pacific people celebrating the rich heritage of the Pacific community.  The Runway Cut – Waistcoat: A new waistcoat for male crew members and ground staff, cloaking the wearer in mana and authority.  Varsha Anjali is a journalist in the NZ Herald Lifestyle team. Based in Auckland, she covers culture, travel and more.  Thu, 10 Apr 2025 19:12:38 Z