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Nestled on the western flank of the Andes, three hours northwest of Quito, I was swathed in the finery of the Chocó rainforest. Mashpi Lodge is an eco-tourism jewel, a five-star oasis within the wider Mashpi Reserve that serves up a resplendent rainforest encounter with the mighty Chocó. Truth be told, because the reserve traverses a wide altitude range, from 550 metres to 1400m, there’s the rainforest and the cloud forest. There’s a high level of endemism here, by the separation through the Andes. The forests on the western side of the Andes evolved entirely differently to the Amazon rainforest on the eastern side. To really make my head spin, geological history testifies that prior to the seismic uplift of the Andes, this was all one sprawling forest. 

All senses engaged and stimulated, it’s the liberating and blissed-out sense of isolation that encircles you on arrival at Mashpi. And you’ll be warmly swept up by the sparkling hospitality laid on by the highly personable, outgoing and convivial lodge staff, throughout your stay. Gazing dreamily into the thickly textured forest greens, I felt a world away from civilisation. I was visiting this superlative eco-lodge and reserve as part of a fortnight-long foray to Ecuador with New Zealand’s trusty South American specialists, Viva Expeditions. And Mashpi Lodge is a showstopper. First up: location, location, location. Beyond the long, sinuous sprawl of Quito, the mountains rise up to meet you, as you pass through a swag of colourful hillside towns and sleepy villages on winding, undulating roads, pressing deeper into the forest’s embrace.  

Running along the entire Colombian Pacific coast, from southwest Panama to northwest Ecuador, the Chocó rainforest region is characterised by extremely high precipitation and extraordinary species diversity. It’s like a tropical Fiordland, where the rainfall is measured in metres. Three metres is the average annual count. In a region wracked by deforestation, this pocket of the Ecuadorian Chocó is a rebounding treasure; former Quito Mayor Roque Sevilla purchased this 1200-hectare tract nearly 25 years ago to safeguard it in perpetuity. More than 90% of West Ecuador’s forests were deforested between 1938 and 1988 Today, Mashpi Reserve spans 3,000 hectares, with plenty of community buy-in that continues to expand its borders. 

900 metres high, cocooned in the cloud forest, the head-turning, modernist lodge with supersized, panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows was built on the site of a former sawmill. And not a single tree was felled to construct this 23-room masterpiece.  Much of it was pre-assembled in Quito, to minimise the environmental impact of construction. Awakening to an unobstructed forest vista, in my spacious, stylish suite, veils of mist ethereally danced through the canopy at daybreak, as unfamiliar birdsong pierced the silence. The lavish use of glass ingeniously ensures the lodge is not in competition with nature’s finery – it provides a window on the wonders of such lush foliage.  

Mashpi Lodge in the forest. Photo / Mashpi Lodge

It soon becomes vividly self-explanatory why Mashpi is such a mecca for twitchers, because it’s ranked as one of the world’s top 10 bio-diversity hotspots by WWF. A quarter of all of Ecuador’s avian species are found here. 400 species have been documented at Mashpi, including 35 species endemic to the Chocó region. So many birds, so little time. So what are some of the big hitters? I was all aflutter with the hummingbirds, because Mashpi boasts a staggering 32 species of these remarkable little birds that seemingly hover like levitating monks.  

A runaway highlight was visiting the hummingbird garden with my expedition guide Paolo, where within minutes of refilling the feeders, the air was ablaze with these feathered friends. I marvelled over so many species Purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, Purple-throated Woodstar and the Booted Racket-Tail. As its name suggests, this bird’s tail resembles two squash rackets. Hummingbirds are engrossing to watch up-close, seemingly unperturbed by your presence as they do their mesmerising dance, while filling up from the feeders. Their wings do emit a humming noise, as if they are motorised – and they’re the only bird that can fly backwards.  

The booted racket-tail hummingbird. Photo / Supplied

String birds and South America into the same sentence and it’s the Toucan that springs to mind for me. I adore them – and Mashpi heaves with these cartoonish looking birds with those enormous cylindrical beaks, including the Chocó Toucan (all yellow and black) and the Pale Mandibled Aracari Toucan. Another thrill was to intimately observe the Collared Trogon, with its fire-engine red belly and vivid green upper body. The Squirrel Cuckoo and the Woodpeckers are equally delightful birds to add to your bingo card. Yes, twitching can become effortlessly addictive, before you even know it!  

Paolo and the expedition team led me and a lovely couple from Geelong to Mashpi’s Life Center, which is an abundant breeding centre for butterfly species – to enhance scientific research. It also serves as a stirring butterfly farm for close communion with these critters. Butterflies serve as a great barometer on the state of the forest and whether it’s a healthy ecosystem. Mashpi is home to almost 800 species, including the truly remarkable Giant Owl-eye butterflies. When two of these darlings perch together, their wings form the face of an owl, duly scaring off predators. It’s like nature’s trusty version of the Evil Eye! 

Two giant owl-eye butterflies. Photo / Mike Yardley

For a complete change of scenery, take a night walk with the expedition team to sample nocturnal life in the forest. We spotted vine snakes slithering in the trees – from a safe distance. One of the most wondrous spectacles was the fox fire, an Avatar-like luminous fungus. James Cameron couldn’t improve on that. By day, you’ll swoon over the plethora of orchids and bromeliads, as you stroll the forest trails. Given the propensity for rain, the lodge will happily kit you out in wet weather gear – and gumboots, if and when required.  

Mashpi Lodge offers a myriad array of expeditions and activities from full-day guided hikes and waterfall swims, to their Dragonfly open-air gondola and positively riveting Sky Bike. The latter is similar to a zip line strung across the forest canopy, but the novel point of difference is you pedal your way across the skyline, with a gorge 200-feet below you, with a river flowing between the rocks and dense forest. This ingenious activity is designed for two people to use at once, with the back-seat rider doing the pedalling. It’s a 200 metre-long traverse on that high-wire cable and my legs certainly got a solid workout, steaking across the cloud forest. Thankfully, there were no close encounters with vine snakes. The views are celestial. 

Mashpi Lodge Sky Bike. Photo / Mashpi Lodge

Every evening, Mashpi’s naturalist guides and resident biologists conduct group talks, sharing even more wonders about this rarefied pocket of the world. You’ll learn about ongoing research projects, conservation initiatives and the natural history of the region. Their passion and dedication is palpable and infectious. You certainly won’t skimp on indulgences at the lodge, with a comprehensive wellness centre, should you wish to treat yourself to some serious spa pampering.  

The bar and restaurant is another radiant feature, with exemplary mixology and top-notch cuisine, served within the two-storey dining room, slathered in glass. Exemplifying the personable nature of Mashpi, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, you’ll be attended to by the same waiter for every dining occasion. My charismatic waiter, Jorje, was a delight to get to know over the most divinely executed Ecuadorian dishes, that spanned delectable Ceviche, Mountain Stew with those gorgeous miniature Andrean potatoes, Chicken Tamales and Chia Spaghetti. Lodge menus celebrate the best of both worlds —surf and turf— wedged between the coast and the towering Andes. 

Mashpi Lodge restaurant. Photo / Mashpi Lodge

Mashpi Lodge is the complete package, encompassing luxurious accommodations, splendid dining, and tailored nature experiences to suit your preferences. But beyond being enrobed by the unplugged glories of nature, what really shines through is the exceptional level of warm and gracious hospitality that soon makes you feel at home and part of the family in this extraordinary natural sanctuary. Within minutes of arriving, one of the chirpy staff members Alexin shot a drone video of me, gazing out across the vast cloud forest from the observation deck.  

He swiftly sent it to me, so I could impress my family on the grandeur, serenity and sheer scale of Mashpi Reserve. He does that for every guest and it’s those sorts of thoughtful, innovative touches that makes such a deep impression. Nature is the greatest balm to sooth your soul and exalt your spirits. Mashpi Lodge swirls with enchantment. It’s an irresistible Ecuadorian experience to thread into your adventures when visiting this most seductive of destinations. 

Mike surveys the setting at Mashpi Lodge. Photo / Mike Yardley

Viva Expeditions knows South America inside-out. They offer premium, meaningful travel experiences, with a down-to-earth approach. You’ll meet local people, experience authentic food and culture and stay in local, boutique accommodation. Viva’s 24/7 on-the-ground local support and expertise ensures you’ll be safe and secure. Explore Ecuador and beyond with New Zealand’s proven experts in travel to South America.   

Jet your way to Ecuador with LATAM. Latin America’s leading airline group connects Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru with the world, including direct flights from Auckland to Santiago, with onward connections to Quito.  

Mike Yardley is ¾ÅÒ»ÐÇ¿ÕÎÞÏÞtalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.