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Second only to La Paz as the highest capital on earth, Ecuador’s high-altitude capital is a breath-taker. I’ve just enjoyed my first foray to captivating Quito with Viva Expeditions, and I cannot recommend it high enough. It is a tantaliser, bursting with enchantment and a welcoming embrace in equal measure. Flying into Quito is fascinating, because with the city situated at 2850m above sea-level, my aircraft’s descent felt decidedly underdone. Dramatically tucked into a long and sinuous valley snaking around the foothills of the Andes, with vast hillside barrios densely cascading down the slopes, it is a topographically compelling sight, on final approach. 

But don’t downplay Quito as merely a stepping stone to the rainforest or the Galapagos. It is a superlative destination in its own right. The crowning jewel is Quito’s 17th-century Old Town, a heaving historical quarter so impeccably preserved that it was the first city in the world to be accorded UNESCO World Heritage Status. Arriving late at night, Viva Expedition’s incomparable ground operators Metropolitan Touring, greeted me at the airport and whisked me into the Old Town, for a few nights stay at the landmark Casa Gangotena Hotel.  

Casa Gangotena in Old Town Quito. Photo / Mike Yardley

Perfectly poised overlooking Plaza San Francisco, this boutique luxury property sings with the history of the city. First built in 1600, a Basque Spaniard, Martin Gangotena purchased the residence as his home a century later. This influential family reconstructed the mansion just over a century ago, commissioning the famous Italian architects the Russo brothers, to refresh the building, with strong Art Deco and Art Nouveau influences. This neo-classical mansion was later repurposed as an intimate hotel by a former Quito mayor, opening its doors to the world just 14 years ago. Do not stay anywhere else. 

Not only is its architecture and design irresistibly elegant, with so many divine spaces, but the exceptional guest service is a masterclass in personal, graceful and authentic hospitality.  One of my favourite spots is the light-filled conservatory lounge. Once an open-air courtyard, this elegant space was where I often enjoyed lunch, and it still whispers of the past. The Italian fountain that used to flow here can now be found just outside in the garden. The hotel brims with freshly cut and radiantly coloured roses at every turn. My Metropolitan Touring guide Rodney remarked that Ecuador is one the world’s biggest exporters of roses – many ending up in the USA.  

Basking in the lap of luxury, accommodations are palatial in size and awash in indulgence. My massive marble bathroom was like a temple to cleanliness. Beneath high ceilings, my stupendously sized bed was blissfully comfortable. House-keeping staff routinely plied me with chocolates, sparkling and still water, fresh Ecuadorian coffee and generous platters of local fruit including so many unfamiliar delights like Uvilla. These golden berries, as big as a plum, are deliciously sweet and tart. 

The hotel has been honoured with the prestigious Relais & Chateaux status for its world class service and gastronomy. This designation is not given lightly and dining at Casa Gangotena is another prized draw. Every dish is prepared in “Cocina Mestiza-style” which is the combination of indigenous and European-influenced cooking traditions, envisioned anew, cleaved from fresh, native, and locally sourced ingredients. The divine selection of empanadas, brimming with inventive combos like green plantain and shrimp, were sensational. I noshed on so many exceptionally executed dishes like Smoked Andean Lamb and Criollo Pork, which was slow cooked for 72 hours, served with carrots, roasted beets and sour cream.   

Dining delights at Casa Gangotena. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Casa Gangotena is the perfect blend of tradition and innovation. The same murals and antique furniture remain in place from past generations, accentuating the soul of the house, while contemporary touches—like luxurious clawfoot tubs, creative cuisine, and a salivating rooftop terrace and bar with panoramic skyline views is the unmissable cherry on top. This hotel will sweetly seduce you, swiftly and strongly. In the galaxy of memorable luxury boutique hotels, Casa Gangotena is a shining star. 

Waking up to the bustle and buzz of Plaza San Francisco, treacle-dipped in the early morning sunshine, Rodney led me on a riveting tour of Quito’s historic quarter, which is crammed with colonial architectural confections, extravagant cathedrals, low-slung historic merchant shops and evocative cobbled plazas.  I was goggled-eyed at Museo Casa Alabado, gazing over a staggering archaeological collection, with exquisite ancient art works and pottery dating back to 4000 BC!  

I ventured up El Panecillo hill to the Virgin of Quito, the city’s guardian angel, a 40 metre high statue of Mary, complete with a crown of stars, angelic wings and a chained dragon – all crafted from a patchwork of aluminium sheets. I strolled the lost-in-time La Ronda Street, a sleepy 17th century cobblestone lane lined with colonial houses, that morphs into a fiesta of ebullient salsa bars, after dark. And I took my fill of people-watching paradise, in the historic heart of the Old Town, palm-fringed Plaza Grande, just before the inauguration of their charismatic and youthful President, Daniel Noboa. 

Virgin of Quito sculpture. Photo / Mike Yardley

Here’s a round-up of some of the other essential sights and experiences. Before Spanish colonisation, the region was home to the indigenous Quito people who were later absorbed into the Inca Empire. In the 15th century, the Inca reduced their temples to ruins so they wouldn’t fall into the hands of the conquistadors. Right across from the hotel, San Francisco Church and Monastery is Latin America’s largest religious complex. Built on top of an Inca temple site, the first bricks were laid here in 1535, just months after the Spanish seized control. The monastery is still active, with a dozen or so monks, while the palm-filled Andalucian-style cloisters made me feel like I’d been transported to Seville.  

The complex previously had its own brewery (now a museum) which produced the very first beer in the Americas. But it’s the main church that swept me up in sight-inducing awe. Heavily gilded and intricately decorated, its lavish baroque splendour is overwhelming.  We climbed up the belfry for a sweeping view across the Old Town. Beneath the church, a series of small shops in the basement sell a fiesta of religious goods like incense, rosary beads and ceramic figurines, including Jesus dressed as a firefighter. There’s no denying Quitenos’ faithful fervour! Across on the other side of the plaza, La Compañia Church is another eye-popping baroque masterpiece, which took 160 years to complete. Beyond its intricately carved volcanic rock façade, its decorative interior bedazzles in a swirl of Spanish, Moorish and Inca architectural styles.  

La Compania Church gilded glory. Photo / Mike Yardley

From tip to toe, the church is bathed in gold leaf and enormous oil paintings graphically depicting heaven and hell to the Inca converts. Given their reverence for the Sun as a God, you’ll notice how the Sun crowns the crucifix in the church, adapting Christian iconography to resonate with the locals. Rodney pointed out the side altar wall was destroyed in a devastating fire during conversation work in 1996. An eight year restoration project painstakingly reconstructed it. They did a great job, although the newer gold leaf certainly looks brighter than the original work.  

Rodney led me through the colourful mercantile sprawl of Mercado Central, for an authentic slice of local life and the abundance of fresh produce. The swirling array of exotic tropical fruits is astonishing – everything grows in Ecuador. I’ve never sampled so many different varieties of bananas! Freshly picked cocoa leaves are available here, to ward off altitude sickness. And the food stalls will initiate you with some much-loved local dishes. Tuck into green plantain soup, encebollado (fish stew), fritada (fried chunks of pork, served with hominy), and I also loved locro de papas (potato soup with avocado and cheese.)  

For breakfast on the go, the locals binge on bolón, fried balls of unripe green plantain, that are mashed with cheese and some pork. Delish! For a cracking sweet street eat, you’ll notice women touting espumilla (meringue cones). This feverishly popular street food dessert is a light and fluffy meringue cream, with a wide flavour range, like guava and blackberry - and served in cones. I became quite partial to them, regularly buying them from cafés, because the street vendor hygiene standards looked highly dubious! Surprisingly, they’re not as cloyingly sweet as our meringues. The name "espumilla" translates to "foam" in Spanish, aptly describing its texture. 

At the mercado, I also sampled chicha de jora, a traditional Andean fermented alcoholic drink made from germinated corn, that can be traced far back to pre-Hispanic times. It was mildly pleasant. Traditionally, women would chew the corn to kick-start the fermentation process. Thankfully, my brew was germinated mechanically – or at least, I hope it was! 

Trying chicha at Mercado Central. Photo / Mike Yardley

Throughout the historical quarter, I admired a trove of merchants and craftspeople plying their trades and selling their wares, just have they have done for generations. I called into a religious statue repair merchant, who painstakingly restores broken or cracked ceramic sculptures, religious statues and dolls. The family enterprise has been running for over a century, but the current owner is anxious his adult children don’t want the business passed down to them.  

Rodney led me to a local shaman, Emma Lagla who operates El Secreto De Las Plantas. For many generations her family has specialised in healing with medicinal plants. Inside her shop, the expansive plant cabinet was loaded with all manner of plant leaves that Emma deploys to cure and ease a catalogue of ailments. She will also happily give you a quick cleansing to rid you of negative energy.  

Ancient Andean plant healer. Photo / Mike Yardley

Another great stop is Sombreros Lopez, an old-school shop that has been handcrafting hats for over a century, using materials such as toquilla straw and wool felt, for durability and elegance. I was intrigued to learn that the Panama Hat is in fact Ecuadorian in origin. They misleadingly earned the name because the hats were first sent to Panama for onward shipping around the world, in the 19th century. Ecuadorians call Panama Hats by their original name, Montecristi hats. The best quality hats are called Montecristi superfinos. 

Something else to buy for loved ones back home? Chocolate! Ecuador’s cacao production has been enjoying a renaissance, and its single-origin chocolate is a must buy. Traditionally it was mostly exported, but Quito is now bestowed with some very fine local chocolate producers, underpinned by sustainable, local practices from bean to bar. There’s a variety of top-quality artisanal chocolate shops to nibble your way through, like Pacari, which incorporates plenty of local Andean ingredients into its finished product. I also jaunted to Chocolateria Chez Tiff, where handcrafted artisan chocolates will thrill your taste buds.  I sampled chocolates that ranged from 60% to 90% cacao, elevated by the inclusion of macadamia, passion fruit and coffee. Don’t miss indulging in a hand massage with cacao butter moisturising cream.  Yes, please! 

Viva Expeditions know Ecuador inside-out. You’ll enjoy premium, meaningful travel experiences, with a down-to-earth approach. You’ll meet local people, experience authentic food and culture and stay in distinctive accommodation. Viva’s 24/7 on-the-ground local support and expertise ensures you’ll be safe and secure. Explore Ecuador and beyond with New Zealand’s proven experts in travel to South America.   

Jet your way to Ecuador with LATAM. Latin America’s leading airline group connects Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru with the world, including direct flights from Auckland to Santiago, with onward connections to Quito.   

Explore the world with the trusted name in travel insurance, Cover-More Travel Insurance, which has you covered with added safeguards, over and above the typical travel cover, for the likes of medical treatment. In addition to single-trip cover, multi-trip annual cover is another great option, wherever you want to go. Check out the full range of protections and tailor the level of cover to your requirements. Cover-More’s 24 hour global assistance centre is just a phone call away.   

Mike Yardley is ��һ�ǿ�����talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.